Pants Fitting: What I've Learned About Fitting Pants Thus Far.....

Whoa, can someone tell me where last week went? I sure would like to find it! Sigh. Things have been busy, busy, busy and the next 2 weeks aren't much better. I have to churn out 3 dresses---one for my daughter that's needed by Friday and I although I've done a muslin haven't worked on her dress yet. But more on that later. For now, as promised, I'll sum up what I've learned from fitting pants.

This may be a bit repetitious from what you've read in my previous pants posts from the last 2 months but here's the overall summary of what I've learned from studying pants fitting......

1. Study, study, study. Fit, Fit, Fit. And repeat. I can't tell you how crazy it is that in the middle of all my failed attempts and my re-strategizing that eventually the light bulb came on and I understood how to fit for my figure. You feel like you're getting no where but in actuality you're getting closer to getting it. Every bit of information you gather isn't wasted and if you're persistent you'll begin to make the necessary connections.

2. Start with a GOOD pattern! Make sure it's well drafted. Check other folks reviews. This is ALWAYS a good place to start. This could be the difference between getting stuck doing a bunch of needless alterations (like getting rid of crazy back leg wrinkles), etc and making a nice pair of pants that needs some adjustments and a few tweaks.

3. Pattern alterations should go from big to small.  Trust me a thousand tiny tweaks at first won't make a difference. Save yourself the time. Try to locate the major fit issues with the pattern. Adjust the length and then deal with circumference. Then after I've finished that I analyze the crotch fit. I'm to the point now where I make my major crotch/length changes at the flat pattern stage and then just do minor tweaks in muslin. But that's only because I'm familiar with the alterations needed for my body type.

4. Learn the tricks of the trade. Oftentimes if the back crotch length isn't long enough for me then I can alter the crotch (scoop it out a little bit) and give myself a little more length.

5. Invest in GREAT resources. Pick books/ DVD's etc that are helpful. There are TONS of resources out there. I've blogged about my favorites in several posts. There are even helpful You-Tube videos out there. Keep searching through information until you find something that really sticks with you.

(I have lots of resources. These are my 3 favorite books but I've also relied heavily on videos on the subject as well)

6. The crotch is the trickiest part to fit.  I use my measurements in addition to the aids of a flexible ruler to get my crotch shape and deconstructed pants of the same style to make alterations. Remember when working on tricky areas you've got to work smarter not necessarily harder!!!!

7. Be open to changing the crotch curve shape. There is NO STANDARD shape. Based on our figures and posture the crotch cure shape may need some tweaking. For this I look to deconstructed RTW pants of the same style.

8. Changes in crotch length and crotch depth can potentially affect each other. When making changes keep that in mind.

9. Remember the crotch shape, lengths isn't the same for every style of pants. So know you may have to make slightly different adjustments for every style just like you would if you were using different fabrics.

10. Practice pants fitting with a pair of less complicated pants. Believe it or not, I learned alot from fitting a pair of leggings. For others doing crotch alterations on a pair of  elastic waist pants may be simplest. Trust me there's always time to learn to sew a fly front and add a waistband.

11. Get in tune with your body. Know what kind of pants fit your figure well. I'd NEVER sew a pair of high-waisted pants since I'm short-waisted. If you're not comfortable in fitted paints then maybe a trouser style is better for you. "To thy own body be true" LOL!

12. Once you get great pants that fit you can re-use them and even change them up to create different styles. If you'd like to preserve a great pants pattern just iron on interfacing to the tissue.

13. Keep at it and try to have fun! I know it can be a bit distressing and upsetting when you can't perfect the fit right away. But that's in part to just not knowing what to do. The more you work at it the more you will begin to understand and gain the info you need that will help you get the fit you want.

To read about all of my past pants fitting experiences and adventures feel free to type "pants" in the search box on the right side, midway down my blog!

For those of you still working hard to get a good fitting pant I wish you well. I know you can do it! Just hang in there!!!! If I can do it I know you can as well!!!!

Pants Fitting: Working Smarter NOT Harder---Pants Fitting Series Part 2 of 3

A few people were curious to how I go about doing my pants fittings so I thought I'd oblige them. There's really nothing magical to what I do just a series of steps

Here's how I do my pants fitting.......

1. Make all the necessary pattern alterations. I compare flat pattern measurements with those of the pattern. As I mentioned before I also compare RTW pants measurement with those of the pattern. I outlined my pattern adjustments here. I also look at the pants leg widths and lengths to make sure they're ok. When I'm satisfied with the results I proceed to cut out the pattern. I have to admit that most of my pattern adjustments are done at the flat pattern stage.

(Pattern adjustments)

(Pattern being compared with RTW pants that fit well)

2. If I'm working with a new pants pattern I ALWAYS make a muslin. My muslin is either made out of the usual bleached muslin fabric or something or a similar fabric to what I plan to sew. If there are any side pockets then they're taped to the pants piece and they're cut out as a unit with the pants piece. So basically I'm just cutting out 2 front and back pieces. I don't tend to fiddle with other details (back pockets, etc) during the fitting.  I will cut out back yoke piece of course because it's important for fitting purpose. I don't even bother cutting out the waistband.

3. Here's how I assemble my pants for a fitting (and actually when I sew them if no fancy top stitching is involved)
-Sew front pant to back pattern at sides. Do the same with the other leg.
-Insert one set of pants legs into the other with right sides facing.
-I sew up the crotch below the fly to leave an opening so I can try on the pants (if there's no fly then I leave front upper pants open about 5" or so). Stop sewing about 1" away from the inseam on both pants front and pick back up sewing 1" after crossing over back pants inseam. I basically leave a gaping hole in where the inseams connect. By leaving this open it just makes it easier for me to do any inseam adjustments. Sometimes I may have to adjust the front or back inseam and with them left unsewn it's easier to do that.

4. I try on the pants with seams out. I pin the front crotch up at the appropriate seam allowance. With the pants inside-out and the seams visible it's easier for me to do the necessary tweaks.  This is especially helpful when making crotch adjustments.

(Fitting with seam allowance out for easier tweaking)

5. I place 1" elastic at the waist. At this point I make observations of the pants and begin to do my normal suite of adjustments. I move the pants up or down until I get the crotch depth right. I look to see if any length needs to be added in the back (which is where I sometimes come up short). If the length issue are resolved then I look at the circumference and take in or let out as necessary. I suggest you consult your preferred pants fitting book(s) for helpful advice on the adjustments you need to make for your body type.

6. Once I've noted the changes I go back and correct them on my tissue. I never usually make any drastic changes which is why I just transfer the changes to the tissue. If I made drastic changes I would probably just use my muslin as a pattern instead.

Ok, so there you have it! I told you my methods weren't complex. See, you didn't believe me (wink)! As I mentioned before I do most o of my pants corrections at the flat pattern stage. In my opinion it can be really difficult to tweak pants. For me to start with a pattern that's similar to my measurements and a RTW pants that I have and know fits helps me avoid most of the crazy, unnecessary fitting woes. It's been my experience that when I've got the crotch curve/length/depth in the right ball park all I have to do are minor tweaks--such as deepening back darts, fixing gaposis in the waistband or yoke, etc. Which is why I go to great lengths to make sure my pattern adjustments are done ahead of time & I've compared the pattern with RTW as a backup strategy.

Ok, I don't know if this was that helpful but I hope it helped put some of you people who have been working tirelessly. Trust me I understand the struggle. Everyone does things different so I'm sure you will find what works for you. If anyone has any other pointers they want to share feel free. Never underestimate how your experiences can be helpful to others!!!!  In the next post I'll summarize what I've learned about fitting pants (strategies/tips).....

"My Pants Fitting Journey"---Pants Fitting Series Part I of 3

So I thought it would be kinda cool to do a few posts detailing my Pants fitting journey. I know fitting and sewing pants can be so cumbersome and I've seen so many people give up on it out of frustration. Trust me I know that frustration all too well---I've dealt with it for YEARS!!! It's enough to make you want to pull your hair out and cry. I'm hoping these posts will be of some help and at the very least encourage you to jump back in if you've given up the hope of ever making pants that fit---especially if you really desire to do so. Well, here's my story.......

My pants sewing journey REALLY began about 2 years ago. You may recall 2 of my trials with Jalie 2909 documented HERE and HERE. I'd taken a couple weeks off from sewing to study fitting pants and I believe that it paid off and was a good effort. I even used some RTW pants to help make me with adjustments to the pattern. But despite that I still had a few fit problems.....

1. I couldn't get rid of back leg wrinkles
2. Couldn't get comfortable fit in rear.
3. My front crotch was too tight. I'd shortened the crotch depth from the original pattern but didn't quite know how to add room in this area.

I made a little more progress in the the Fall of last year with this attempt, again using Jalie 2909. I came away with a better pants fitting strategy but still didn't nail the fit......

Although I didn't quite figure things out entirely I kept reading/watching everything I could on pants fitting. I was determined to get it eventually.....

Fast forward to the Fearless February Sew Along (FFSA), just a few months later, where I decided to have another go at it!!! Suprisingly this time I figured it out and improved my fitting abilities tremendously.

My FFSA Pants Fitting Strategy:
1. Change the pants pattern. I tried again to resume work with Jalie 2909 and got no where. I spent more than half of February fiddling with it before I switched to Burda 7192. I wanted to pick something fit for a slimmer woman's figure and was drafted well.
2. Looked to RTW again for answers. I had to see the difference between the pattern and what I was actually wearing that fit. I knew by comparing I'd find the answers.

I made up my Burda 7192 muslin and used the information I'd studied up on to make changes to the muslin. I still had some back leg wrinkles and the pattern gathered under my rear. I did a few adjustments to the pattern and everything except the crotch looked great. I also found some helpful tips in this other fit book but I still had some crotch issues and back leg wrinkles and I knew I wouldn't resolve it by just minor tweaking. And I DEFINITELY WASN'T going to make more than 2-3 muslins (although the possibility of 10 were mentioned by the book's author). So I had to get radical!!!!! I decided to deconstruct a pair of pants that were similar in style and fit well. I never wore them---they were from NY & CO. and were a mulberry color. Whatever compelled me to buy them I don't know but they were perfect for deconstruction and comparison with Burda 7192.

Well I took it apart and aligned it with Burda 7192 and instantly found my issues.....

(deconstructed NY & CO. pants on top of Burda 7192 pattern. As you can see the pattern were pretty much similar minus the crotch shape.

(red line show changes to front crotch. Lowered the front inseam)

 (back crotch curve lowered which helped to add to the crotch length and fully cover my rear)

(muslin after making changes! Butt & back crotch fit looked GREAT!!!)

And as a result I sucessfully made Burda 7192, my gray pants.

But keep in mind that the changes I made to get these pants to fit were specific to this style of pants. You can't just copy your crotch curve from one pair of pants and apply it to all styles. Case in point---try taking apart 3 different styles of pants (fitted, semi fitted, loose) and look at the front/back crotch shapes and lengths. I've done it--it's really cool!!! You'll notice they're all a bit different since they're drafted to fit your body differently. The fitted pair of pants is likely to have a shorter crotch curve whereas the loose pair may have a longer one since the pants will hang from the body more. I learned this when I immediately made my pair of denim capris following this pattern. I had to make slightly different changes to the crotch.

(Excuse my horrible bathroom photos. LOL! Muslin for Burda 7863---the denim capris pattern. This muslin was made out of a crosswise stretching knit. As you can see the crotch depth was too long. I had to go in and shorten it a bit.)

 (The back crotch was too tight. I had to add a little to the back inseam and lengthen the back crotch a smidge).

(The final result after all of the fittings---Burda 7863. The fit wasn't absolute perfect. Still had some minor crotch issues to work out  but I loved the end results!!!)

From those experience I gained some additional knowledge about how to fit my figure type. Here it is...

Pants Fitting Figure Analysis:
1. My Derriere is more full than high. It's dropped in the recent years due to age and inactivity (unfortunately not hitting the gym like I used to).
2. I have fuller inner thighs. In some cases I need to add to my inseam a bit and taper to nothing.

(example alteration from book "Fitting and Pattern Alteration" for my fuller rear. This usually takes of the fuller thigh issue.)

3. My crotch depth & length is shorter than it is in the back (my waist is at an angle---higher in the back then the front).
4. Due to my rear I have gaposis in the back and rely on darts for contouring. If it's pants with a waistband I likely take out the extra there or if it's jeans with a yoke I can take out darts in the yoke (one on each side) and then take out the excess in the center back seam of the waistband.

Remember it's out of experience with fitting/sewing pants that you give yourself more knowledge to build off of for the next try.....

Lastly, I wouldn't have been able to get this far without great resources. I collect and read EVERYTHING I can get my hands on usually. Here my fave's.....

My Favorite Resources: 
I pretty much listed them in my 2010 posts (links above in 2nd paragraph) but here's the 3 most beneficial books to me. I LOVE these books!!!! The Singer is awesome due to the color photos and explanation of crotch shapes, how posture affect pants pattern, etc. The FP&A book is fantastic due to it's wide range of pattern alterations presented. BTW, this is the OLD version---I'm aiming to get the 2009 version. Of course there's PFRP---who doesn't love Palmer/Pletsch books. Such a good combo of photos and drawings. I also listened to Peggy Sager's of Silhouette Patterns, webcasts on fitting pants. I blogged about them HERE.

Anyhow that's all for now. Within the next week I hope to do 2 more pants journey posts focusing on "how I fit pants"---how I make/fit my muslins and how I sew the final pants. I kinda have my own process. And another post as a synopsis of "all I've learned so far about pants fitting"--personal insights, strategies, etc. Again not alot of people post this type of info so I thought I'd share. Hope it's helpful:).......Ok, my eyes are getting heavy so I'm off to bed.......

Burda 7863---My First "Homemade" Denim Capris!

It's day 24 of the Fearless February Challenge and I've cranked out garment #2--- a pair of denim capris. I'm delighted to admit that this is my first time sewing a pair of denim capris. I've avoided sewing any denim jean due to pure laziness (not a fan of all that topstitching) and of course my initial struggles with fitting pants. I'm pretty pleased with my first attempt. And to be quite honest all that topstitching wasn't bothersome at all---actually alot of fun. I'm definitely happy I decided to take on this project. Here's my review......

(Front view)

Burda 7863

Time to Sew: About 6 hours or so. 

Sewing Ease (scale 1 easy to 10 difficult):

Not difficult at all. I'd give it about a 5 since itt involves alot of topstitching---Since my other sewing machine was down I had to keep switching between my stitching and topstitching threads.

Pattern Description:

Slim 3/4 length jeans.

Pattern Sizing:

I cut and sewed the size 14

(Side view)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

YES!!!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Pretty much!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked the simple style of the pattern. It's very well drafted and it's very fitted which is how I like my capris.

(Back views---I created my pocket design and sewed it on my machine)

Fabric Used:

Dark Indigo Denim with some stretch that I've had in my stash for a while.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

-Warning---the front crotch depth is long. You can tell from the pattern envelope model pics. I removed a little over 1" of depth but it still was a bit long.

-I omitted the pocket flaps and belt loops.

-Created a design on the pattern

-Didn't do the side seam topstitching. I was nervous the white topstiching on the dark indigo would be too much.

-Cut the front pockets down in size and made them mock. The pockets extended to the fly front and were just too big for my taste.

-Added 2 darts to the yoke---removing 6/8 in. each.

-Had slight gaposis in the waistband so I removed it by adding dart to back waistband seam.

-I cuffed the hem.

What would you do differently next time?:

-Add a bit more ease. I overestimated my denim's stretch and made my jeans a bit tight thinking they'd relax a bit. They do but it just takes a bit of stretching. Next time I'll add just a little more ease.

-I'd wash my denim with a can of coke as I hear is recommended to really get the denim fibers to soften up and relax.

-I'd also reduce the crotch length a bit more since there was some wrinkling.

(a little wrinkling in the crotch due to long crotch length)

( even after removing 1" crotch depth, it was still a little long for me)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

This is a great pattern! I definitely recommend it!

Wardrobe Versatility:

They're denim capris---they practically go with everything.

Conclusion:

I love my capris!!! I practically live in them during the Summer and I'm delighted that I can make my own. I plan to make them in a rainbow of colors!!!!

Burda 7192----Loving My Charcoal Gray Pants!!!

It's day 17 of the Fearless February Sew Along and I finally have my first garment to show for!!! Don't worry, the other pieces should role out more quickly. You may recall that I started off the month trying to sew up Jalie 2909 and wasn't able to resolve the back leg wrinkles so I switched over to Burda 7192. I'm so glad I made the switch and although I had a few issues trying to tweak the fit eventually I figured it out---yay, I figured it out (Thank you Jesus!!!!) and I've made a pair of pants I'm pretty proud of!

Now, I must admit that these pants are a SWEET VICTORY for me! I've been trying to learn how to fit pants for YEARSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!! I've studied how to fit pants for YEARS! You may recall the posts I've done on the subject. But even with that I still couldn't quite get it right. Then on last week the "light bulb finally came on" and I did it. I had an epiphany of sorts. I'll be honest---it didn't take rocket science or brilliance. Actually, just a little work and ingenuity. That's it---plain and simple. I'll tell you what I did in the next post! But for now, let me show you my pants. They're not 100% perfect but I think they turned out great! I wore them for the past 8 hours and have been all over the place---in and out of the car, at church, at the store, etc. and they still look pretty good--only had a few wrinkles. That's my usual test on how good a garment is---by the way it holds up to wear! So these definitely get an A+. So here's my review......

(Yayyyy, my pants after 8 hours of wear! They still looked great!)

Burda 7192

Time to Sew:

These weren't too bad at all. I was able to tackle it in a few hours.

Sewing Ease (scale 1 easy to 10 difficult):

Not hard at all. I'd give this about a 5. As a whole pants without any fancy designs are pretty easy to sew. You just sew up the legs (front/back piece)--put the 2 tubes in each other and sew up the crotch curve. Then progress with the rest.

Pattern Description: 
Pants with mock yoke pockets.

Pattern Sizing:

Size 14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

YES!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

For the most part. I had to pull out some other resources for clarification. For instance I didn't understand how they recommended sewing on the waist band. They recommended sewing it on as 2 separate pieces and then sew the center back seam. It could've been just me, but it was a tad bit confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

The pattern is WELL drafted! I loved the wider leg and the slimmer fit at the waist. There were little "mock" pockets---I mean they were pockets but hardly usable. They could've just omitted them.

Fabric Used:

Charcoal gray suiting fabric. I think it was a medium weight gabardine. It was perfect for these pants!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I didn't really make any major changes. I adjusted the fit of the pattern to suit my body and get a good fit such as crotch curve changes, etc. I'll discuss that in my NEXT POST. I did lengthen the pattern by 2". That actually ended up NOT being long enough--especially to wear with 3" heels. So I could only do a 5/8" hem on it. I knew I should have made it longer---especially since I have about a 34" inseam. I did have to eliminate the gaping in the center back of my waistband and that was easy to do---just added a dart in it.  I also skipped adding the crease. Also---I made some "unintentional changes"---aka mistakes.--LOL!!!I had a little snafu with the zipper insertion but recovered from it. It's sad because I clearly wasn't paying attention---I've used Sandra Betzina's fly front tutorial countless of times and have never had a problem with it. It's the best tutorial out there.

(no crazy back leg wrinkles!!!!!!!!!!)

What would you do differently next time?:

I would probably leave off the pockets since they aren't very useful.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Not sure if I'd sew it again but I highly recommend it. Since I'm so short-waisted, I usually wear my shirts out and thus don't need a pants with all of the pockets, belt loops and such---no one ever sees them. I like pockets and stuff in my fitted jeans/capris but not so much my slacks. Might not make much sense but it's my preference.

Wardrobe Versatility:

It's charcoal gray---it practically goes with everything. I'd love to pair it with bright colored sweaters (hence the bright pink) like bright yellow and orange. I think these are definitely a wardrobe staple.

Conclusion:

Very nice pair of pants!!! I couldn't be more pleased!!!!!

Ok, I have a few more garments to work on. Off to do some more sewing.....

Don't judge a book by it's cover.....

....or by quickly glancing through it's contents. It's day 6 of the Fearless February Sew Along and I'm trying to work out the fit kinks on my Burda 7192 pants muslin. I've been going through my library grabbing my fave pants fit books---reviewing materials just to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. In the midst of that I rediscovered a book I've had on my shelf for a good while now but really hadn't dove into it.

 When I first purchased this book I assumed it had very basic fit instructions and since I have LOTS of books on fit it just fell to the bottom of the pile. Well after flipping through it I realize it's a real gem. For one the photos of fit problems are very clear and so are the solutions. But the best part is I checked out the pants fitting section and low and behold I was quite suprised. The pants fitting section isn't overly exhaustive but immediately I FOUND MY FIT ISSUE outlined---right there in black and white. I mean there is an entire section devoted to my problem---which I really didn't know had a very descriptive name. It's a "Full Buttocks and Tilted Waist"! That's me!!!!!!!!! Short crotch in the front and long in the back!!! Out of all of the fitting books I have, I've never seen both issues addressed together and fit solutions offered.  See the fit suggestions below:

Now mind you this knowledge doesn't make my fit process any easier. The author says there's alot of trial and error needed to address these full butt/ tilted waist issues. I mean the first line of defense is to lengthen the back crotch curve which pulls due to lack of length. Other suggestions include scooping out the crotch, adding some to the outseam, etc. She also goes on to say that pants fitting isn't an easy process (I think we've all figured that one out) and that she sometime made upwards of 4 to 10 muslins to obtain a good fit. I think my jaw just fell off and hit the ground. There's just alot of big adjustments and small fine-tuning that sometimes has to happen. That sure is alot of muslins, but considering how much work it takes to perfect pants patterns it makes sense.

I'm happy to have discovered this info. It's nice to have a book that showcases "real" figures and fit solutions for them. This book is a great companion to Palmer Pletsch's "Fit for Real People".  Mind you I'm only on muslin #1 with Burda 7192  and still have a few more adjustments to make and alot of fine tuning. I hope I get closer with every step. I hope I don't get anywhere near to 10 muslins.......Hopefully with the in-depth suggestion above I won't have to:)

Burda 7192 Progress Report....

So I'm checking in real quick to say that I think my Burda 7192 pants fitting is going ok. Actually the pants is drafted quite well, has cute pocket details and goes together real fast!  It seems to be sized a little bigger than indicated on the tissue so I plan to go down a size, especially since I'll more than likely be using a fabric with stretch in it. Here's a few pics.....

 (Note: My muslin is inside out---seam allowances visible. It's easier for me to do my fitting this way)

They're still not where I want them. There's some wrinkling going on strangely enough just over my calves. It's like the fabric's getting hung up back there. But I strongly believe this has something to do with my posture instead of width--especially since these pants are a bit wide at the bottom. The pants ideally need to cascade over my rear and fall straight down over my calves too. I may still need to make a seat adjustment or two. I'm collecting data & making my observations. I think I"m on the right track.

Here's my personal fit analysis:

1. I have a high rear. My rear crotch curve is long--usually 1-2" longer than most pattern drafts.

2. I'm shorter in the front crotch curve in comparison to most commercial patterns. 

3. The longer waist in the front and the shorter one in the back puts my posture  at an angle. I think this is the biggest reason I have so much trouble with fitting pants!

4. The sides of my knees touch and my feet point outward. I may need to look at cutting part of the pattern leg and shifting it. The lovely Aminat gave me some addt'l info that I want to try out. http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.ca/2008/01/full-inner-thigh-alterations.html

Changes for my next pair:

1. As mentioned earlier I'll go down a size.

2. I need to stabilize the waistline during the fitting process so I don't get any stretching.

3. Try the full inner thigh alteration?

4. Measure to make sure I'm doing a proper protruding seat alteration.

5. 

Ok, that's all I have for now. I'll keep working at it. I'll probably end up starting another project while I keep working at these. I REALLY want to get alot accomplished this month. I'm fearlessly pressing ON! Hope all is going well with your projects. BTW, some of the Fearless Sew-Along participants have been kicking it into high gear. Be sure to check them out!!! The Sew-Along participant list is just a few posts back:)

A Weekend of Repeats---McCall's 5394 & 6654

It's been a week of steady sewing. I've been at work on some great wardrobe builder pieces---2 ponte knit skirts, 2 leggings, and a cowl neck top. Below are 2 of the pieces that are finished and the other pieces are near complete. I would've had them finished but I took a couple of hours to study draping and pattern drafting. No, my new draping book haven't arrived yet so I relied on my older editions. The concepts are definitely becoming clearer and I'm finding myself dissecting RTW designs and thinking of my own alot more easier. I have to admit it's alot of fun!!!!Anyway, I digress. The 2 pieces I sewed, shown below, are repeats. I can definitely say they are my TNT legging and knit pencil skirt patterns.

McCall 5394

McCall's 5394. You may recall I made 2 pairs HERE. These are my "imitation leather" leggings. They're not pleather, but instead a stretchy fabric I found in the dance/activewear section at Jo-Ann's. From a distance it looks like leather but up close you can see all the sparkle in it. I love the effect. And I won't have to worry about sweating too much in these.

(see the mini sparkles in the fabric.)

McCall 6654

It was a little cool this morning so I wore my newly sewn ponte skirt with a black top and scarf. Excuse my squinting---think I had too much sun in my eyes. I first made this skirt HERE. Here's an upclose of the fabric.....

Ok, that's just 2 of the 5 pieces I'm working on. I'll post the others later as I wear them. The FEARLESS FEBRUARY Sew-Along (details HERE) is less than a week away and I'm nearly done with my planning. I'm so excited!!! Can't wait to unveil my sewing plans. And I can't wait to see yours. It's not too late to join in if you haven't already!!! Until next time, happy sewing!!!!

You Say To-mato and I Say Tom-ato & McCall 5394

It's always pretty neat that there are multiple ways to say and do some things. Such is true in the sewing world.  Yesterday & today I spent some time watching some videos on fitting and sewing pants. I watched Palmer Pletsch's Jeans for Real People DVD and Peggy Sager's 2 pants fitting webcasts found HERE.  I've had the jeans DVD for a while but finally watched it and I've watched Peggy's webcasts before but like to watch things over and over to ensure I picked up on all of the good tips.

What's interesting is both groups had amazing fitting advice!!! They are both 2 of my favorite fit EXPERTS. But what's ironic is both groups had slightly different pants fit advice. Pati from Palmer/ Pletsch encouraged "scooping out the back crotch" if there is bagginess in the seat area whereas Peggy Sager advised against scooping anything and suggested doing a dart at the center back inseam, tapering to nothing at the side. Both achieved good results with their select methods. It was really interesting to see the differing opinions on the subject. It's such a lesson to me. Pants fitting isn't an exact science. It's good to try a few suggestions and even venture out and do some experimenting of your own.

Well speaking of pants fitting. I finished up 2 pairs of leggings on today and will just showcase them below. They were such an easy sew that they don't actually deserve a formal review. They are McCall 5394. I LOVE this pattern and it's my new TNT legging pattern. The only pattern change I made was to reduce 1" from the front rise and add 1" to the back rise (my rear end is high in the back which always call for a higher rise.) I have lots of sweater dresses that are too short to wear by themselves so these leggings are perfect for them. Here are a few pics. Sorry, I had to settle for the smartphone pics so they're not the best quality. But you'll get the idea.

(Here's up close of the legging fabrics. Both are some spandex blend. The one on the left is black with silver and has a bit of a sheen and strip pattern. On the right is a blue floral print spandex. I loved the print. It kinda had a graffiti feel to it.)

 (the black leggings with multi-color sweater and brown boots)

 (black leggings up close)

 (the blue floral print leggings with red sweater)

 (up close)

(side view)

These were two really fun leggings to sew up and it took less than an hour (not quite for me since I kept having interruptions from the "Wee-One"! I definitely plan to make a few more. I also enjoyed all of the pants fitting videos I got to watch and re-watch. I love learning various techniques because they not only help me but will help me in fitting my clients. Anywho, that's all for now. Be back soon with a few more finished projects!!!

Yes!!!!!!!! I think I FINALLY understand Pants Fitting!!!!

Well it's about time!!!! Ok, I'm not a master YET or anything but I think I'm on the right track with fitting pants on me. I've made Jalie 2909 for the 3rd time and the fit is definitely much better. It really pays to not give up or throw in the towel!!!

(Front view--- I made this twice before and didn't have too much problems with the fit of the front)

(It was the back of the pant in which I struggled fitting. My high waist/rear in the back was tricky to fit especially since my waistline is lower in the front. There's a much better rear fit and the legs are less wrinkly on this 3rd attempt. BTW, Pants are fitted inside out so seam is exposed (for fitting purposes) and left leg wrinkles due to straining to take pic).

I can breathe a sigh of relief!!!!!! I've spent ALOT of years really trying to streamline my understanding on how to fit pants properly! It has definitely been a journey! A journey no less complicated by a non-standard figure. By that I mean my body, like most of you, is a bit different from the Big 4 patterns and other patterns out there!!!! I wrote posts about my 1st Jalie 2909 attempt and 2nd Jalie 2909 attempt. I've been honest about my difficulty of trying to fit my short waisted, high-derriere frame. I'd have back leg wrinkles and couldn't get the crotch just right.  True my first couple attempts at pants sewing were decent. Although much study and work went into them and good results were yielded, I still felt a little impaired in my knowledge. You know like I was still missing a few things. I've got tons of resources, all great but I needed something that would just gel everything I've been reading together.

Well yesterday I decided to watch Peggy Sager's Ultimate Pant Fitting webcast from 2 years ago. I've always been aware of her webcasts (and own several of her instructional videos including her pants one) and have been able to watch a few with the intention of watching them all one day. It was her video that sparked my light bulb moment. My biggest sewing epiphany and eureka moment to date!!!! I can understand things SO much clearer. Again I think it's partly due to me studing fitting pants for so long. I've also deconstructed pants (multiple pairs) that fit and analyzed their elements (crotch depth, length, shape, features etc.) I'm a visual learner so seeing Peggy's pants fitting just solidified all of the other info I'd been collecting/ learning. For the Record: I am not a paid or compensated spokesperson for the company (only wish I were that lucky) just passing on helpful info I discovered (wink). Ok, I'll continue.....

We're all at different places in our learning so I'll let you watch the video and be the judge for yourself. She even has a 2nd pants fitting webcast and a bunch more other webcasts that may be helpful to you. This/these may or may not be the resource you need. Or you may pick up one suggestion that will help you improve a bit. I don't know. But I'm sure glad I checked it out......

But this is a summary of the helpful information I picked up.

1. Pick a REALLY good drafted pattern. It's kinda difficult to correct a badly drafted one.
2. Always make a muslin in similar fabric (I always make this my practice).
3. Don't be nervous to pick a pant 1 size bigger if necesary and base pick on body measurement plus ease. You can easily reduce excess circumference later.
4. Make up the muslin and don't sew in darts (I've heard this before. It's easier to drape those in later).
5. Leave off all zippers, etc with the muslin. Despite the closure just sew up the front with proper seam allowance. Try pants on and then pin the seam allowance in the back. If you have any adjustments to make it WILL NOT be from front or back center seams!!!! (I'd never heard that before. I think that makes alot of sense. You should technically make adjustments at the side seam).
6. Once on, make crotch adjustment by pulling up pants to where crotch feels comfortable. Then pin the waist and hip to make pants snug. The pants should be snug and not falling down.If you're fitting by yourself you can then take off pants and sew those adjustments. (I've learned before that to fit you always deal with length, then circumference and then fine tuning).
7. Peggy says that there is no need to scoop out anything in the crotch. (I've been hearing about scooping out crotches and it's mentioned in several books. It may work for some but I can understand why she's against it. It can add length to the crotch and complicate fitting attempts.)
8. Drape in the darts.
9. Then take a look at the crotch. If there's any weird "smiles" or "frowns" then you have a crotch depth issue. This type of adjustment is the main reason why making a muslin is best. Peggy demonstrates how to horizontally pin out excess fabric across the crotch. The opposite is true if in the back there's pulling. You may have to spread the back and in essence create a dart to accomodate a larger rear end. (I'm beginnig to suspect that reducing the crotch depth will always be the case for me. I've noticed a shorter crotch in the RTW pants I have and I had to make the alteration on sewn pants.
10. Once you're satified with the tweeked fit then use elastic to mark where waistband should be.
11. If you've made lots of adjustments it might just be easier for your muslin to become your new pattern. Just remember so sew the crotch changes, etc. in place first. (I have a couple of fabric muslins from my first few attempts at pants sewing I prefer to use the muslin pattern---it's easier).

And much more.....

As you can see I sure did pick up alot and I think it definitely served to "plug some of the holes in my understanding". I used to be so FRUSTRATED trying to sew pants. Now I can say that I feel a whole lot more confident in my technique. I'll finish up this 3rd pair and post pics soon. It's not super perfect but looks lots better. I look forward to whipping out a few in the next month or so.

So if you're struggling with pants I have the following words for you:

....

Don't EVER give up!!! There may be a sewing technique or fitting issue that you may not be able to conquer now but if you keep at it and try to understand it from different angles you WILL eventually get it!!! Keep at it.

Until next time......Happy Sewing!

What...there’s such a thing as Denim Trousers???

 (White denim trousers from Ann Taylor's)

Ok, I feel like the slowest person on the planet right now.  Why did I just discover this? Honestly, where have I been? Well first off I rarely go pants shopping since it’s SO discouraging. I’m 5’8 and am mostly legs so If I wear pants I have to buy the Tall’s and frankly they’re VERY hard to find. Express & NY & Co. are my go-to stores but only when I found them on sale. Secondly, when I shop for pants I usually will buy jeans or I’ll by dress pants typically made out of a stretch twill or something similar.

I don’t think I’ve ever run across denim trousers. I never thought (well actually it did but I quickly dismissed it)  to combine such a fabric synonymous with casual wear with a classic pants style such as a trouser. I guess in my mind there’s some universal rule out there stating that trousers must always be made out of traditional trouser fabrics.  

(Jalie 2909)

So you can imagine my surprise when I pulled out Jalie Trouser pattern to see one of the suggested fabrics as a stretch denim. Just to double check this suggestion I Googled white denim trousers and yep, low and behold they’re everywhere. Hey denim is nothing but another type of cotton fabric so why can’t it be used? It all makes since now but definitely wasn’t what I expected. Aren’t new discoveries grand? 

 Lucky for me I just so happen to have some white stretch denim at home. I’d planned to eventually use it to make denim jeans  but will use them to make a cute pair of white pants instead (I wanted white pants instead of jeans anyway). I made Jalie 2909 back in 2010 (can't believe it's been that long ago) & outlined my fitting issues in great detail. Although they turned out well I still wasn’t too happy about the fit. I’ll take another stab at it and think it will be much better since I feel I’ve got a slightly better understanding regarding my fit issues (short waist, high derriere).

Wish me luck. I'm going to try and see if I can squeeze these in this week or asap!

But let me ask you, did any of you guys know there was a such thing as denim trousers???