Friday, November 21, 2014

Color Inspirations In Nature

I have to admit that out of all the things that inspire my fashion designing nothing does it more than colors!!!! I love the blending of beautiful colors. I almost forgot these pics I took this Summer when I visited the Columbia Zoo. I mainly took them as color inspirations. And as all things that are beautiful they are meant to be shared. Hope the beautiful colors of these animals inspire you as well.

 This photo doesn't do the color of this snake justice. I'd totally wear that shade of green in a fitted dress and possibly bind the neck and sleeve hem in the off-white!

 The patterns on this snake are just marvelous. I instantly saw a shift dress with the pattern that has a tan border. Gorgeous, Gorgeous, Gorgeous!!!

 Another vivid green I'm head over heels in love with!!!

 My Kiddo made it into this pic but I love the coral reefs and all the colors they bring. Heck, I majored in Marine Science and I believe a HUGE part of it was my attraction to the beauty of the sea as a whole!!! I can imagine a variety of silhouettes in these colors!

 Vivid shades of blue are so divine!

This red and white shrimp in particular caught my attention. I love the bold contrast. I'd love that kind of striping to go down the side of a dress or be used in a crop top & skirt combo! Love, love, love!

It's always great to put yourself in a place where your imagination and creativity can be excited. Nature tends to do that alot for me. I'm curious, what sparks your sewing creativity???

Sunday, November 16, 2014

McCall's 6796----The Floral Sweater knit Turtleneck Dress

So this week has been crazy! Had a few victories and a couple of bumps in the road.  I'm learning not to stress about the bumps.They are as they say "par for the course". I survived the week and thought it would be nice to make myself something to wear. Some people pamper themselves with pedi's or a nice meal. I pamper myself with a self-sewn cute outfit. LOL! I call it "sewing therapy" LOL!  I didn't have much time so I needed something I could whip out quick. I've had this floral sweater knit in my stash for over a year and have been wanting to make it into a turtleneck dress for a good while now. So I whipped out a turtleneck top pattern and lengthened the top into a dress and voila'------- a dress was born and in less than a couple of hours.

 I'll be the first to admit that this fabric is an interesting one. It reminds me for some reason of a really bad couch print. LOL!!! It's so busy!!! In a way it's pretty and ugly at the same time. You know what I mean???? It's hard to explain. BUT I JUST LOVE IT!!!! After I made this dress I let me Hubby see it and he had the same reaction. It took him a moment to process it but he ended up loving it! I love fabric/fashions that provoke you to ponder them! Anyhow enough about that here's the review.....






Pattern used: McCalls 6796, view B

Time to Sew:
2 hours or less

Sewing Ease (scale 1 easy to 10 difficult):
Definitely a 2

Pattern Description:
Turtleneck top that I converted into a dress

Pattern Sizing:
A size 10 for the top and graded to a 14 for a hips. The knit was really stretchy so I took another 4" off total---1" between each seam.
 (Full View)

(Back View)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes but I made it into a dress

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yep

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It was a great base pattern for a dress conversion

Fabric Used:
Floral sweater knit with hues of purple, gray, etc.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
*I lengthened the turtleneck into a dress---add 14"
*reduced back length 2"---my unusual short back adjustment
*added 1" to turtleneck height and and narrowed to fit better
*made sleeves 3/4"
*I stabilized the shoulder seam using clear elastic as usual

What would you do differently next time?:
Nothing. I loved it!

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and Yes!

Wardrobe Versatility:
Add a jacket, fur vest, etc.

Conclusion:
CUTE DRESS!!!! I'm in love with it!!!

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Construction Details: Lilac Wedding Gown--- Picture Heavy!!!

As promised here are the dress details below. The original gown & wedding pics are posted HERE. But before I get into details......

First off thanks to EVERYONE for all the kind words, comments, facebook likes regarding the lilac wedding dress I made! I'm humbled at how well this dress came together.  I definitely felt the love and really appreciated it!

For a dress that took a few months to plan, track down the right fabric and 2 weeks of straight sewing there's alot of details to this dress. I'd sewn gowns before but never one using so much fabric.Also, allow me to make a correction. The skirt contained 40 yards of fabric---the overall dress was about 45. I made a mistake in my initial blog post before.

Anyhow I took this dress on as definitely a challenge. I relied on my experience with gowns, much prayer (God knows) and learned a TON along the way. As with any piece of artwork in progress it's easy to be doubtful and I had those nights where I overanalyzed and second guessed myself. Despite it all you know you have to push forward and when you do you learn that you know much more then you give yourself credit for. I surprised myself with the production of this one (smile). Anyhow, enough with the sentimental reflection---let's get on to the nitty, gritty details of this dress.  If you're like me, I love to look at a pretty dress but oftentimes I'm most interested in how it's made. Here's some condensed info on how I made the dress  Ok, here are some pics and there are more details below.
(the Bride and I)


 (Front view with illusion belt. I really loved the color of the lilac and coordinating shimmery organza. Add the rhinestones and the whole dress just sparkled!)



 (Lace up in the back with modesty panel)

 (Modesty panel has snaps on one side to hold into place. And there's my business label:)

 (hanger looks included although I never use them & even discouraged my client in this case. The dress was a bit heavy so we just hung it over a hanger & stored in garment bag)

 (There were hundreds of these little "tacks" in the skirt. To get the fluffyness I pushed up the organza fabric and pinned in place. When I was happy with the positions I hand sewed each tack using double thread and only into the satin underneath being sure to not catch the lining).


 (dress on the table. It's so fluffy!!!)

 (Swarovski rhinestones up close. Notice the neat design. Came up with myself. All handsewn)

 (My client wanted a belt but I wanted one I could add afterwards instead of incorporating into each section of the princess seam bodice. After making a satin belt with organza overlay I noticed it didn't look right. I stressed over this for 2 days. Then I came up with the idea for an "illusion belt" (Thank God for that idea) so it gave her the belt she wanted to hold some extra "bling" and it wasn't bulky on the dress. I simply used double sided clear tape to hold it in place. Worked like a charm!)

(The dress was assymetrical and the front was really short---only 16")

(The lining and fashion fabric were sewn to each other. I did this before even attaching the bodice. So I sewed the 2 to the bottom of the skirt, uneven of course---One of the edges extended further then the other ---think it was the outer satin fabric--- so once I flipped it inside out and pressed it the lining wasn't visible from the outside.)

Ok, here's the deets..........


Inspiration dresses:
I was presented with  a gown my client had ordered but was the wrong style and didn't have a full enough skirt. From that I researched some gowns organza skirt wedding gowns online and was able to create and idea I knew she would like. Again, I wanted her to look like she was walking in a bed of clouds!


The Fabrics:
Lilac Satin- ordered online
Shimmery Lilac Organza- ordered online
Lining---in coordinating shade found at Fine Fabrics in ATL. Got is for $1.50/yard which was INSANE!!!! And it matched perfectly.

The Bodice:
It's 3 layers.
Layer 1: satin fabric with knit interfacing pressed on it, and organza
Layer 2: woven, mildly stiff interfacing sewn to satin fabric and boning was added
Layer 3: Lining fabric
I used some really cool bra cups that I took from another gown. They were tacked onto the middle layer. Although I used them my bride still wore a corset for extra support.

Swarovski crystal rhinestones Additions
Prior to this gown I'd only glued on swarovski rhrhinestones. This was my first time hand sewing them on. I ordered them from glitzonline.com and talked to Darlene who gave me helpful info over the phone on how to install them. It turned out to be pretty simple and straightforward! I finished the bodice in about a day's time.

-I first drew out my design and then tested it flat in the same amount of space I intended to use on the gown.
-Once I was ready to get started on the bodice itself I used a heat erase marker to mark out the stone area. I left space for the upper bodice seam allowance.
-Used basting thread to thread trace outline. Ironed area to remove marker marks.
-Began with stone placement as outlined in trial layout. Started with adding center "circular" stone with hot glue and created design from there.
-"Glue baste" using hot glue a few stones down at the time. Always layout stone and check spacing before gluing. If you do glue down, hot glue makes it easy to pull stone off and tray again. Glue on the backs of the stones peel off easily too. The hot glue is what made this process easy.
-Again, not stones were laid in the seam allowance area.
-Once majority of stones placed I was able to go ahead and attach all bodice layers (organza/satin, interlining with boning attached & lining---3 layers mentioned above) then edgestitched.
-Resumed with adding stones around neckline edge using hotglue then sewing them in by hand.
Note: Use double thread, matching fabric and a normal to short length needle. You want to knot to secure after you've done each hole. Keep in mind the stones are glass so the double thread helps ward against possible cuts. You want to loop in each hole a few times.
I plan to do a video tutorial soon!

 (started playing with design flat using sheer tracing material. You can use anything, muslin, etc. Note how I drew in my SA and got everything fitted.)

 (Closer view)

 (Once I was happy with my design I moved on the the bodice front. I did most of my work flat as you see and as mentioned above used a thread traced boundary to mark my space. I laid out the rhinestones near the upper bodice seam allowance just for spacing purposes but DID NOT glue or sew them until I attached the bodice to the lining and underlining. Then I went back and sewed those on. That's the trick to doing it right!)

 (Making progress)

(Finished)



Corset Laceup
-I followed instructions per this website HERE. It was REALLY easy! It was my second time making one.


Skirt
Skirt panel pieces were sewn together. Consisted of front center piece (16" long) which was the shortest, side front, side back, back---7 pieces total. Skirt was cut in 4 layers: Satin, lining, 2 layers of organza overlay. 9" Zipper was added to back panel piece.

Top layer of organza overlay was twice the length of each panel to allow for "bustling???"
Skirt and lining were attached at the hem. Small slit left in lining side seam to allow for "inner access" of skirt when I decided to close everything up.



Attaching Bodice to Skirt
Bodice was attached in it's entirety and basted at the edge before being sew to the skirt at the waist. I Then the skirt lining was attached to the bodice and skirt (by going through the zipper opening)over to create clean finish on the inside. The I hand stitched the lining to the zipper.


Creating the Poufy organza skirt

I wanted the skirt to look like my client was sitting in a bed of clouds.  I used safety pins to position the organza and create the busling effect. While my client was wearing it I started in the front of her dress and part of the sides. Once I liked the look I could fininsh up the rest with the dress on a form. I went back and handstitched using a double threaded needle. This took a considerably long time---over the course of a few days. There has to be 250+ bustles all over the skirt. The effect was well worth it! I started tacking the organza on the front of the dress while my client was wearing it for a fitting.

( I started tacking the organza on the front of the dress while my client was wearing it for a fitting.  I took it home to finish the rest. It took several days to complete!)

(I finished the rest of the tacking at home in my living room.  It took HOURSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!! The trick with the tucks is to get the bottom of the organza placed and work your way up the skirt. You're pinning to hold at first so adjustments can always be made. Once everything was pinned I went to sewing. I was fishing out pins for days LOL!!!! This is the completed work but before there was organza fabric train everywhere. My Hubby and daughter were troopers. They were forbidden to occupy that part of the living room and were so gracious about it LOL!)



Calculating the Organza for each panel:
This by FAR was the hardest part. 31 yards of organza I had to put onto a 9 yard satin/lining underskirt. 25 of the 31 yards of Organza were continuous so the wrong cut would throw off everything. I planned, thought, strategized and planned some more. So glad I didn't cut until I was for sure! The goal was to make sure each panel of the overskirt had the same proportion of fabric despite each piece being different in length. After sketching and drawing diagrams I decided to go back to my Marine science research days and create an excel spreadsheet. I played around with different scenarios and came up with a plan that worked beautifully. The organza overly was done in 2 layers. The underlayer would be the the normal length pattern piece for each while the upper layer would be 1.5X that I added to the length of each piece. With that scenario I had just enough fabric for everything and could start cutting.


(Some of my Excel calculation work)

(This is what cutting out the Organza overlay (top piece) looked like. That's a very long pattern piece pictured---at least 3 yards long so see how much extra fabric I had to add to it to achieve the full skirt. That was ALOT of fabric to tack up!


And of course this was the result---see my Oct 26th post for all the wedding photos HERE!!! Ok, I think I covered most of the details.  Hope you found this info interesting/helpful:)



Again, I'm so thankful to have had this opportunity! It really helped me hone and develop my skills as a designer and sewer on another level! Hope I have more gown in the future (wink)!

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Great News!!!/ Finished Projects/ Playing Catch up!!!

I'm SOOOO sorry for being away so long. It's been 11 days but that's wayyyyy too long for me! I love talking to you guys!!! If you can imagine I've been in recovery mode since making the wedding gown! THANKS SOOOO MUCH for your  kind words and compliments. You have no idea how much the validation means!!! I PROMISE my Wedding Gown Construction Details post will be next up. It's chalked full of details so I wanted to take my time on it.  In the meantime let me catch you up to speed on what I've been working on. Again, I've been in recovery mode since producing the gown. A project of that size required alot of time that I had to take from other tasks. I've nearly recovered and in the last couple of weeks have accomplished the following:

Made a costume for my kid. We don't personally celebrate Halloween but do engage in some alternatives. She went as "Kitty Galore" inspired by the "hairless" cat from the movie "Cats and Dogs". The costume consisted of a shiny gold, leopard printed cape, matching mini skirt, gold belt with bow, cat tail and store bought tights, shoes and modified cat ears. I used a basic cape pattern and modified it drastically narrowing it in the shoulder. The skirt is self drafted. As thrown together as this costume was she got a ton of compliments. I LOVED that she loved it and had a part in designing it!




 (showing off her tail)


(hanging with some princesses)

I made this Halloween costume for a Friend/Client. We converted his 2 year old son into Luke Skywalker as depicted in the Dagobah scene in the first movie. Here's a screenshot from it. I made the shirt, pants, yoda's backpack and the jacket in the next pic.


So here's the scaled down 2 year old version. I'll have pics of my 2 year old client in them to post soon!





I'm currently working on a pink, pleather overall for my client's Sweet 16 party and will possibly be doing the back-up dancers shorts as well. This is the inspiration pic but the pants will be much looser!



Ok, the GREAT NEWS I wanted to announce is that Gentleman Jim is teaching a Master Tailoring Course through BurdaStyle. I've had the privilege of benefiting from his teaching and superb tailoring skills and my sewing and tailoring skills have improved DRASTICALLY! I'm serious---DRASTICALLY!!! I plan on taking on tailoring a suit for my Hubby on next year. I'm getting ready. All I can say is that for most sewers they can achieve a high level of sewing but to go even higher you need to connect with an expert. That's why I always encourage mentorship. There's just some places you can't get on your own. Well receiving instruction from a Master Tailor is definitely quality instruction in a form that's yields exceptional results. In his 53 years of tailoring it's like he figured out most every short cut for professional industy methods. His talent definitely will amaze and enlighten. I don't mean to go on and on but I'm SO excited that everyone gets the opportunity to learn from his as I have. You can visit his blog site (finetailoringbyjim.blogspot.com) for more information on this course HERE or go directly to the course HERE
He's also giving away several of his DVD's to celebrate. Which you can also find on his blog HERE
Follow him on FaceBook HERE


That's it for now. I've got a pile of Men's suit alterations that won't fix themselves. BTW, I learned how to alter Men's suits through Mr. Jim. I'd always been intimidated by it but not anymore!






Saturday, October 25, 2014

The Shimmery Lilac Satin & Organza Assymetrical Wedding Gown with Swarovski Rhinestones

I really can't believe the day came and went! I can't tell you how excited, humbled and fulfilled I feel in having been able to make my client's wedding day so special ---and in such a BIG way. I was happy to deliver the wedding gown of her dream! I'd been working with Ms. T (I guess I can call her Mrs. T now--LOL!) since late July in planning this gown. It was truly an amazing experience from start to finish! This was my first BIG wedding gown. I say big as in the fact that this gown contains about 43 yards of fabric with 40 yards of them in the skirt alone---mainly comprising of the shimmery organza When I first met my client and she'd showed me the gown she had ordered from China that came in the wrong color I had to jump to work to plan out the details of this gown. I knew in the end I wanted to create a dress that made her look like a Princess! I wanted to create the effect in the skirt like "she was walking on a bed of clouds". We had a few challenges in the beginning in trying to hunt down the perfect color fabric to match her Aladdin theme but all of that came together and we were able to move forward with the rest of the details. I had alot of new experiences with this dress. I worked with sew-on Swarovski rhinestones, I a ton of organza fabric, learned how to make a huge tufted skirt etc. My client was an absolute DREAM CLIENT and allowed me to use my expertise to interpret her desires and create the gown she wanted.  And amazingly enough I was able to do just that and she loved it and everyone else did as well. Well I'm not going to talk about construction details now (I'll save them for the NEXT post)---trust me there's lot's to share instead I'm going to relish in today's events and share some pictures. It still all feels so surreal. It took me months of planning and 2 weeks of continuous sewing to complete the gown. So I'm appreciating kicking back & relaxing!!!! I'm amazed and so thankful to have received this opportunity. I started this project not knowing exactly how things would turn out but I'm SO thankful to God they turned out beautifully!!!  Again, I'll cover the construction details for my fellow sewers in my next post---as for now please enjoy the pics!

(The gorgeous couple! I love the side view fullness of the skirt)

 (The gown is assymetrical so you can see the short length in the front)

 (Another view of the train)

(She needed someone to carry the gown around until we bustled it before she danced. It's ALOT of dress!)

(The wedding was colorful and beautiful!)


(Earlier I had the privilege of helping the Bride get dressed)

 (Here are some Informal dressing room pics pre-wedding of course)

 (more informal dressing room pics)

(.....and one more so you can see the train)

 (The Bride and I)

 (BTW, not that anyone cares after having seen the Bride's gown (LOL!) but I made up this dress for myself using NewLook 6120 and a cool poly print from my stash and made the obi belt out of a berry colored fancy cotton fabric. I needed something quick to make, yet stylish. I whipped it up in a few short hours. I had to represent being the fashion designer that I am! I made this dress before and the review is HERE.



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