(Front view--- I made this twice before and didn't have too much problems with the fit of the front)
(It was the back of the pant in which I struggled fitting. My high waist/rear in the back was tricky to fit especially since my waistline is lower in the front. There's a much better rear fit and the legs are less wrinkly on this 3rd attempt. BTW, Pants are fitted inside out so seam is exposed (for fitting purposes) and left leg wrinkles due to straining to take pic).
Well yesterday I decided to watch Peggy Sager's Ultimate Pant Fitting webcast from 2 years ago. I've always been aware of her webcasts (and own several of her instructional videos including her pants one) and have been able to watch a few with the intention of watching them all one day. It was her video that sparked my light bulb moment. My biggest sewing epiphany and eureka moment to date!!!! I can understand things SO much clearer. Again I think it's partly due to me studing fitting pants for so long. I've also deconstructed pants (multiple pairs) that fit and analyzed their elements (crotch depth, length, shape, features etc.) I'm a visual learner so seeing Peggy's pants fitting just solidified all of the other info I'd been collecting/ learning. For the Record: I am not a paid or compensated spokesperson for the company (only wish I were that lucky) just passing on helpful info I discovered (wink). Ok, I'll continue.....
We're all at different places in our learning so I'll let you watch the video and be the judge for yourself. She even has a 2nd pants fitting webcast and a bunch more other webcasts that may be helpful to you. This/these may or may not be the resource you need. Or you may pick up one suggestion that will help you improve a bit. I don't know. But I'm sure glad I checked it out......
But this is a summary of the helpful information I picked up.
1. Pick a REALLY good drafted pattern. It's kinda difficult to correct a badly drafted one.
2. Always make a muslin in similar fabric (I always make this my practice).
3. Don't be nervous to pick a pant 1 size bigger if necesary and base pick on body measurement plus ease. You can easily reduce excess circumference later.
4. Make up the muslin and don't sew in darts (I've heard this before. It's easier to drape those in later).
5. Leave off all zippers, etc with the muslin. Despite the closure just sew up the front with proper seam allowance. Try pants on and then pin the seam allowance in the back. If you have any adjustments to make it WILL NOT be from front or back center seams!!!! (I'd never heard that before. I think that makes alot of sense. You should technically make adjustments at the side seam).
6. Once on, make crotch adjustment by pulling up pants to where crotch feels comfortable. Then pin the waist and hip to make pants snug. The pants should be snug and not falling down.If you're fitting by yourself you can then take off pants and sew those adjustments. (I've learned before that to fit you always deal with length, then circumference and then fine tuning).
7. Peggy says that there is no need to scoop out anything in the crotch. (I've been hearing about scooping out crotches and it's mentioned in several books. It may work for some but I can understand why she's against it. It can add length to the crotch and complicate fitting attempts.)
8. Drape in the darts.
9. Then take a look at the crotch. If there's any weird "smiles" or "frowns" then you have a crotch depth issue. This type of adjustment is the main reason why making a muslin is best. Peggy demonstrates how to horizontally pin out excess fabric across the crotch. The opposite is true if in the back there's pulling. You may have to spread the back and in essence create a dart to accomodate a larger rear end. (I'm beginnig to suspect that reducing the crotch depth will always be the case for me. I've noticed a shorter crotch in the RTW pants I have and I had to make the alteration on sewn pants.
10. Once you're satified with the tweeked fit then use elastic to mark where waistband should be.
11. If you've made lots of adjustments it might just be easier for your muslin to become your new pattern. Just remember so sew the crotch changes, etc. in place first. (I have a couple of fabric muslins from my first few attempts at pants sewing I prefer to use the muslin pattern---it's easier).
And much more.....
As you can see I sure did pick up alot and I think it definitely served to "plug some of the holes in my understanding". I used to be so FRUSTRATED trying to sew pants. Now I can say that I feel a whole lot more confident in my technique. I'll finish up this 3rd pair and post pics soon. It's not super perfect but looks lots better. I look forward to whipping out a few in the next month or so.
So if you're struggling with pants I have the following words for you:
Don't EVER give up!!! There may be a sewing technique or fitting issue that you may not be able to conquer now but if you keep at it and try to understand it from different angles you WILL eventually get it!!! Keep at it.
Until next time......Happy Sewing!