Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Burda 7192 Progress Report....


So I'm checking in real quick to say that I think my Burda 7192 pants fitting is going ok. Actually the pants is drafted quite well, has cute pocket details and goes together real fast!  It seems to be sized a little bigger than indicated on the tissue so I plan to go down a size, especially since I'll more than likely be using a fabric with stretch in it. Here's a few pics.....

 (Note: My muslin is inside out---seam allowances visible. It's easier for me to do my fitting this way)



They're still not where I want them. There's some wrinkling going on strangely enough just over my calves. It's like the fabric's getting hung up back there. But I strongly believe this has something to do with my posture instead of width--especially since these pants are a bit wide at the bottom. The pants ideally need to cascade over my rear and fall straight down over my calves too. I may still need to make a seat adjustment or two. I'm collecting data & making my observations. I think I"m on the right track.

Here's my personal fit analysis:
1. I have a high rear. My rear crotch curve is long--usually 1-2" longer than most pattern drafts.
2. I'm shorter in the front crotch curve in comparison to most commercial patterns. 
3. The longer waist in the front and the shorter one in the back puts my posture  at an angle. I think this is the biggest reason I have so much trouble with fitting pants!
4. The sides of my knees touch and my feet point outward. I may need to look at cutting part of the pattern leg and shifting it. The lovely Aminat gave me some addt'l info that I want to try out. http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.ca/2008/01/full-inner-thigh-alterations.html

Changes for my next pair:
1. As mentioned earlier I'll go down a size.
2. I need to stabilize the waistline during the fitting process so I don't get any stretching.
3. Try the full inner thigh alteration?
4. Measure to make sure I'm doing a proper protruding seat alteration.
5. 

Ok, that's all I have for now. I'll keep working at it. I'll probably end up starting another project while I keep working at these. I REALLY want to get alot accomplished this month. I'm fearlessly pressing ON! Hope all is going well with your projects. BTW, some of the Fearless Sew-Along participants have been kicking it into high gear. Be sure to check them out!!! The Sew-Along participant list is just a few posts back:)

8 comments:

  1. Certainly looks like you are on the right track. You did well taking pictures of the back view. When I try, I get the wall, the ceiling, everything except what I'm trying to photograph. I need to get someone else to take my fitting pictures.

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  3. You are really making progress, ride on. I guess we have similar issue with pant fitting, my front crotch length is about 9" while my rear is about 15" so I usually shorten the front and lengthen the back, and yes that alteration changes the angle of the pattern, and you might notice that your pant length is shorter in the front(at least for me), so sometimes I add additional wedge to the front hem just to balance out or I reduce the front hem, so that the front doesn't look jumpy. I am always afraid of making pants, but sincerely you are really doing good with this pattern. Go fearless.

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  4. Oh pants, the never ending quest for a perfect fit! Looks like you're going to make it happen!

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  5. Your muslin is looking good! I'll be working mine on the vacation week.

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  6. Sandra Betzina has a simple method for those calf wrinkles. You certainly don't have a flat rear end, lucky you as the pant fits well there. But you probably lock your knees which would account for those wrinkles. She has you make a small addition to the back inner leg, tapering to the original cutting line just above the knee. Add 3/8 to 3/4" to the hem and taper up to about 2" above the knee. If you need more than that you'll need to add to both sides.

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  7. I think your pants muslin looks great, Victoria.

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  8. Nice going Victoria. I have to increase the back crotch curve to cover my behind. I also increase the inside seam for my righ thigh only.
    So glad, you've found a good and useful resource in your next post!!

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Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for following me on my 10,000 Hour Sewing Challenge:)

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