McCall 5987 Coat Progress/ The Birth of a Muslin Pattern.......

I am currently working on my January coat and have been delayed due to a fitting issue. I had hoped to have it finished by last weekend but hit a roadblock. When it comes to fit I'm as stubborn as a mule and won't bulge with proceeding until I've perfected the fit. I know this may sound a little crazy, but there's nothing worst to me then an ill-fitting garment. If I wanted that then I could just go buy RTW (Ready to Wear) clothes. Fortunately I've resolved the issue and am working on another muslin to verify that and then I can cut and sew my coat. I will have it finished before this week's end so I can move on to making my February jacket.

My greatest challenge when fitting patterns is my back. I have a narrow back which cause huge vertical folds of fabric to cascade across my back. I'm also high-waisted, so my back is relatively short (for the record my other fit issues are having to lengthen everything because I'm tall, having a high derriere, and having borderline narrow shoulders). Ok, back to my narrow back issue. The drafting for the basic 4 pattern groups (Vogue, Butterick, etc..) pretty much makes altering for my small back a necessity at least 85% of the time. My small back is the main reason why I'd like to get a custom dressform. It would just be so much easier to do alterations instead of taking off and putting on a muslin over and over again to perfect the fit. I do love the fact that I don't ever have to make this adjustment in knits. Also,  I rarely hear about people having very narrow backs. Know of anyone? I mostly hear other sewers complain about having broad backs and shoulders.

To be honest adjusting for my narrow back can be a real pain.  For years I've struggled to find the information to deal with different garments. For one there's not a ton of info out there. Secondly, for the few adjustments that are out there the one you choose depends on what you're making. Sometimes a narrow back alteration can be different when making a dress or  a shirt. The idea is the same but it may have to be executed differently. All kinds of questions can arise. Do I alter for the narrow back above the waistline? What if I'm altering a dress, do I reduce circumference in the skirt? So many questions. Of course it depends on the design. And in short it just takes experience to sort it all. I feel I've finally go a good handle on this and I'm happy about it. I'm familiar with several ways to reduce my narrow back and attribute that to having great resources. My FAVORITE books on fitting are.....

Here's how the "Fitting & Pattern: A Multiple Method Approach" Alteration book recommends I alter my pattern....

I love that this book does show multiple ways to alter your pattern and muslin. Here's the page on the left up close. I love how it calls this the "narrow rib cage" fitting issue. To me, it's a narrow back but I can see somewhat what they mean.

 Here's how the Singer "Perfect Fit" book suggests I deal with my narrow back.....

I love how it shows you how to make minor and major flat pattern adjustments.

So armed with this info I proceeded with making my coat. For starters I picked a coat out a coat of my closet that fit me very well and I used those back adjustment to compare with the back adjustments of this pattern. I noticed the upper back was about 1" wider so I decided to take the inch out of the shoulder down to the mid back. This reduced the width of the shoulder would require me to ease in the front piece when I sewed it but that wouldn't be a big deal. After I finished up this alteration I decided to make up my test garment out of muslin and mark the waist and grainline.

Here's the muslin of my coat without the attached scarf. As you can see the front looks good, with the exception of me needing to lengthen the sleeve a couple of inches.

Now take a look at the back......

I was playing around with doing a tuck I read about in the "Fitting & Pattern: A Multiple Method Approach" book (above)and as you can see it didn't even help in removing half the wrinkles. So I knew I needed to do something a bit more drastic.

So to take it a step further I decided to  pinch out the excess fabric from the lower shoulder to the hem of the garment. I think I read about this alteration in a sewing magazine and decided to give it a try.

 

See how much better this works. The fit is perfect. 

This adjustment is great and doesn't change the grainline one bit. For me, it's too much work to try and translate this change onto a flat pattern. I think Peggy Sager's says it best in her Achieve great Fit through Muslin DVD (I highly recommend this and I own all but 2 of her DVD's)---she says, to paraphrase, that you can do whatever you need to in the muslin. Tuck, dart, whatever. If you make too many changes you can always use your muslin as your pattern. And in this case that's exactly what I'm gonna do.

So I've decided to add back the 1" I originally took out of the shoulder and upper back and instead create another muslin in which I just pinch out the excess fullness in the back. Then I'll just use that muslin as my new pattern. Remember the muslin will have grainlines drawn on it so it serves as a great pattern. I'm currently working on this right now.

I'm sure it's all of our dreams for the the patterns to fit perfectly right out of the envelope. Sometimes making pattern adjustments  it seems like alot of work especially when working on such a simple pattern as this one, but of course it's a necessity. But we do what we have to do to create the perfect fit and it's SO worth it!


 I'm currently working on another quick coat muslin and hope to have this baby complete this weekend. On top of that I have some client alterations to do (I'm hemming a 4 layer Ball Gown) ---- so I'm pretty busy. I'm running behind schedule but I hope to catch up. But before I go, let me ask you---what alteration do you normally have to do that is or used to be "a pain to do"?

4 out of 7 "ain't" Bad!!!

I was just about to give an update on coat when I received some good news.  I was notified by my Girl Mad14kt (who just started a new sewing blog) of an Ebay auction for a Velvaboard & Clapper combo just a couple of days ago. Well I've been wanting a Velvaboard FOREVER and it's been on my Christmas list since 2009 when I began my blog. They're not even made by June Tailor anymore (I know because I called the company myself). The next best thing would be a Needleboard but I really didn't want to shell out the $70 or so bucks for it. I know in truth that you don't have to have a Velvaboard or Needleboard when sewing with napped fabric. You can easily use a towel or a big piece of the fabric you're working with to iron onto. Well I love to collect gadgets so not having one was out of the question. The only real question was "where was I going to get one"?


Well I bid on the auction and WON!!!! Yayyy!!! Two years later and I finally score a Velvaboard. As a bonus the Velvaboard was being sold with a "Talon" brand point presser & clapper. I already own a point presser & clapper but heck, I could put another one to use. So for $20 and $6 expedited shipping I was able to get both items. What a deal!  So although I'm a few days behind on finishing my January coat (I'll explain in my next post) I'm SO happy that I finally won a Velvaboard. Thanks sooooo much Mad14kt for the heads up!!! Now I can hopefully proceed with plans to sew some corduroy pants before it get's warm.

I'm super excited and hopefully it will come before my Birthday on next week (the 9th).  So I've dwindled my Christmas list down--4 down 3 to go. I plan to place an order for my clothing labels this week and pick up the draping tape within the next month or so--no rush on that. That leaves a custom dressform from Andy's of NYC and a Coverstitch machine (my bonus item not listed). We'll see what happens...... the year is very young.

An Honest Prayer Quickly Answered---got my NEW Vogue patterns!!!

I have a funny story to tell. Earlier today on my lunch period I wrote the following blog post entitled "An Honest Prayer" which I'd planned on posting later today. It's a written prayer to God expressing my frustration on waiting for the new Vogue patterns. Just a lighthearted post highlighting my pattern obsession and need for divine intervention (smile)!

My prayer went a little like this.......

God, you know today starts the Joann’s 3 Day Sale and Vogue patterns are $3.99 each. I called my local Jo-Ann’s  on yesterday to find out if the Spring 2011 Vogue patterns would be available for sale. The sales associate said no. I asked them if they would be in on tomorrow and to that he gave a definite and adamant NO!  This is the 2^nd Vogue pattern sale since the release of the new Spring line---and still NO patterns. I mean It’s bad enough that it took them FOREVER for them to actually release the Spring pattern line (they were at least a month or so later than the other Big 4 companies) and on top of that it’s taking them FOREVER to get them in store.  Ok, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit, but you know what I mean.....

I mean I had my whole scheduled planned for today. I was going to delay going to work and anxiously wait in the car until Jo-Ann’s open, run in and be one o the first people in the city to get my hands on those sale patterns.Well I guess that plans out of the window.  Ok, I know I sound a bit desperate but have you seen  how fantastic some of the new patterns are. Oh, of course you have---you’re God and you know everything.

I know patience is a virtue but I’m reaching the end of my rope. How long do I have to wait until I can get my hands on them. Alright, I'll be patient but could you orchestrate a little divine intervention to speed things up. Thanks for taking the time to listen to an over crazed seamstress. Love you, Amen.

So I saved this with the intention of posting it once I made it home after work. I made a quick stop at the cleaners to pick up my wool (the one I'm currently using to make a coat with) and I stopped by Jo-Ann's to pick up some liner and other supplies. I walked past the pattern table and to my surprise spotted the new Vogue Spring catalog. I was super excited but remembered  that I was told just yesterday that no patterns would be availabe today. So I checked the pattern cabinet to be on the safe side and there were NO new patterns. Seriously, you've got to be kidding me. Who puts out a new catalog without putting out new patterns? So I grabbed my supplies and checked out. While I was in the checkout line, I decided to inquire of the cashier when the new patterns would be set out. The cashier was able to get another associate to check for the patterns in the stock room. And to my suprise, the associate emerged with all of the new patterns. I was floored and excited. She was a doll and helped me pick out all my patterns which I had listed on a post-it note in my wallet ( yes, I come prepared for patterns sales). I couldn't believe it! Here's what I got.....

 I'm SO excited to have the new Vogue patterns and look forward to incorporating some into my Spring wardrobe. So this is my little story for the day. I started my day with a prayer and ended with an answer. What a miracle. To that all I can say is.........Thanks God, you really work FAST!(smile)

Wool- vs- Gabardine

I have 3 pieces of clothing (1 dress, 1 tunic, 1 pair of pants I mentioned in my last 2 posts) in my queue that are in different stages of near completion. On top of that I'm adding my jacket for the month. If you recall I decided somewhere around mid month that I would join the "Jacket a Month" Sew Along. OK, I know this all seems like a lot but the first 3 items are just a step or two a way from completion. So technically I'm beginning a new project this week.

I've been eyeing this coat pattern (McCall 5987) for quite some time. Isn't it a beauty .....

 I haven't figured out why I'm so smitten with it but I think it's the versatility and drape of the coat. I never really paid attention to this coat but now I'm in love.

The challenge I face now is deciding which fabric to use. I think I'll need your help for this.

I have a beautiful wool fabric (90% wool, 10% acrylic) with two tones of color in it.

 Here it is draped on my dress form

But I also have this wonderful gabardine which is a little lighter than the wool.....

I just can't decide. I've read reviews on this coat and I understand it runs a little big. I want to pick the fabric that doesn't make this too heavy. Also, I want to take into consideration the fact that this coat is unlined. If I use the wool, would I be comfortable with that? Or will I have to line the sleeves to make this coat easier to get into? Decisions, decisions! I plan to make a muslin of this on tonight to adjust the fit and get a better impression on which fabric I should use.

By the way I picked up the wool fabric at an incredible price at Fabric.com. I paid $6.99yd on sale (total $20.97 for 3 yards) which was far better than the $25/yd price I saw at Jo-Anns. Heck, even with a 50% off coupon this coat would have cost a little more than I wanted to spend.  I also was able to take advantage of a few more goodies. As I mentioned before my local Hancock & Jo-Ann's is often limited on the fabrics I want so I don't buy fabric often but rather wait for a big sale to rack up.

So I was able to pick up a host of knits---which as you know IS MY FAVORITE FABRIC TO SEW!!! Lol! Here are 6 different ITY prints. I only purchased these in 2yd increments (for 1 I purchased 3 yds). These are great for cute little asymmetric tops, dresses, etc.

I also snatched up some velour that was discounted super cheap to do a couple of jumpsuits with.

The one on the left is espresso and the one the right is navy. Of course the camera flash made them appear much lighter than what they are. Why did I think the color espresso would be a dark brown. WRONG! I already had black velour so this one has to be returned.

So I'm trying to wrap up my sewing projects. I hope to be able to review 4 pieces before the month's end. Please give me your honest opinion on the fabric for the coat. Which do you think would be best---gabardine or wool. Both are recommended fabrics. Between your suggestions and my muslin I should be able to decide.

What say Ye?????

Paint my sky "gray" anyday.....

Growing up I usually associated the color gray with rainy days and overcast skys. To me it was kinda like the color of gloom. I noticed that it was used in a lot of business wear. But in my opinion alot of the pieces I saw were boring , too corporate,  and lacked any fashionable flare. I just never really gave the color gray a second glance when it came to clothes. It wasn't until recently that I began really liking the color. It all started with a pair of boots I spotted at the After Thanksgiving Sale. Unfortunately they didn't have my size but I sure was smitten with them.

They looked kinda just like these except they had a buckle and chunkier heel and were super SEXY! Since then I've been obsessed with all things gray and it's been popping at me left and right. But I soon began to realize that I don't really even own any gray garments. Just recently I made this dress.....

and of course I love it and would love to add more gray pieces to my wardrobe. It's definitely my favorite color at the moment and I'm plotting on incorporating it in future pieces. So I got to digging around in my fabric closet to track down the gray fabrics I do have. I think I already have enough to get started with.  I read that Allison is sewing a mini gray collection. I'm already liking where she's going with her idea and can't wait to see the finished wardrobe. So here's some fabric I have.

 I bought this gray sateen the other day with the intention of making the jacket in this pattern (BTW: This is one of the jackets in my queue for the Jacket-A-Month Sew Along). I've been wanting to make this for a while and wanted to pick an "uncommon" color for me that I know I would get good use out of.

The idea of the jacket spurred some ideas of some additional pieces like a dress, top, and/or jumpsuit that could go well with this jacket. Here's some other great fabrics I have that show gray at it's best....

The fabric on the left is a peachskin polyester that has an awesome drape. The sateen is in the middle and a poly charmeuse with grays, and browns is on the right. These fabrics would be great paired with the jacket.

This is a sweater knit fabric that has gray intermingled with lilac and green. I'd love to make this into a cardigan and pair it with a pair of gray slacks.

And if I decided to carry the color over into the spring here's a livelier piece of fabric that could make that possible.

It's really nice to be inspired and I must that the color gray is really serving as my inspiration at the moment. I can't wait until I finish sewing up my current garments so I can get started on a few gray pieces. It's funny it used to be the color of gloom but now it's the color of happiness!!!


So I must ask you----what's your inspirational color(s) at the moment!!!!

Got my Fearlessness back--- Count me in!!!!!

Things have been quite hectic as of late and I've had my plate full adjusting to some new responsibilities. It's felt like I've been on a roller coaster. Without going into details, I can truly say that for the last week I've felt like this on the inside. They say a picture is worth a thousand word so this one pretty much sums it up for me.

Yes, I've been feeling like the Cowardly Lion from the Wizard of Oz. Funny I know!  I don't know what it was but every sewing project I set my mind to tackle just seemed so overcomplicated and intimidating. I now know that it wasn't the project that was the problem, but of course me. My confidence felt like it was at an all time low. Ironically during all of that I was reading & absorbing new sewing info, studying and reading your blogs but I was just just too out of sorts to start a new sewing project.

It's funny alot can change within a week. I'm still just as busy but somehow I was reminded of an old truth. The world will keep on turning whether I'm a part of it or not. I have to make the decision to jump back into things despite what I'm feeling. It's ok to be in a funk but it's not ok to stay in one.

We sometimes give our feelings too much credit. They can be up one day and down the next.  People who truly want to accomplish something in life can NEVER wait on their feelings to give them the "green light". I don't know about you but I don't always feel confident, capable, talent, etc. But even if I don't feel it I HAVE TO KNOW that I am (and of course you are too)! So I've learned to push forward despite what I feel. To me this is the very definition of courage. Besides, I've done some of my best work when I didn't exactly feel the most confident.

So I snapped out of my funk and I'm back to my OLD self and I'm feeling great. To be quite honest I'm feeling a little to good---more so like this....

I've got my "Fearlessness" back and Like Evil Knievel, I'm aiming to take my sewing to new heights!


As a result I've decided to join the "Jacket a Month" sewing challenge. Thanks so much to Carolyn and Gigi Sews (two exceptional seamstresses)  for spreading the Stitcher’s Guild sew-along info around . It's an awesome one and one I hope will drastically improve my tailoring capabilities by the year's end.  So COUNT ME IN!!!! The month is almost over so I need to get started and settle on a project, and complete a jacket before the month's end.

Also,  I'm currently working on a mini business wardrobe needed for some weekend business meetings I plan to attend with the non-profit organization I'm a part of. It's funny, business attire isn't fitting for my weekly job which is centered around a casual wardrobe of jeans, shirts, and sneaker. I work in a lab so I suspect heels and stockings aren't too fitting for that environment. It's kinda nice to dress in business attire for a change. Plus I can use it for church as well. I'm currently working with this pattern (I'll only show you the pattern and surprise you with the fabric once it's completed).

All I can say is I'm loving this pattern so far! Plus I still need to finish and review Butterick 5247 from the last post. I've got lots to do and I'm loving it!

So this is everything's that's been going on with me. I'm pumped up and ready to go. How are you doing? Hope all is going well with your sewing!

BTW, Happy MLK Jr. Day......

Remember it's the "Dreamer's" who help change and shape our world for the better!!!!!

Jan / Feb 2011: 10,000 Sewing Hours Challenge---New Year, New Challenge

First I just wanted to wish you a Happy New Year! The last time I posted it was last year and I have to admit it's great to be at the start of a New Year! I'm hoping this will be a GREAT year. I'm hoping for better and more challenging sewing projects and for a greater sewing output!

I posted a quote on my blog that I hope will epitomize my year as well every year thereafter. It's says...

Nobody exceeds beyond his or her wildest expectations unless he or she begins with some wild expectations. ~ Ralph Charell

I love this quote! It's so profound and it's one for the rest of my life that I will strive to live by! 

 With all that said I have to admit that I'm off to to somewhat of a slow start.......... but I'm not worried my sewing mojo will soon kick into full gear soon. I'm in the process of finishing up this dress. It's a super easy pattern

  I don't exactly know how to feel about it but I think once I get it styled it will be a cute dress. It's actually cute but I guess I'm just on the fence with it!

I'm still deciding on where to go from there. My goals for the next 2 months are to finish up my basic wardrobe essentials and do some more winter sewing. Of course I'll follow the rules of my 10,000 Hr. Challenge which are to sew a garment weekly (spending 2 weeks for the more complicated one's) and log 1000 sewing hour (+sewing related activities) for the year. I'm trying to make it an effort to squeeze additional pieces and even duplicate garments within the week. I really want to push myself this year.

Here are some of the patterns I'm planning to choose from.....

You might recall these same patterns from my Nov/Dec 2010 Challenge.

I also want to squeeze one coat in. This one if I have enough fabric for it.....

I am also pleased to say in advance that I'll be attending a Gala in April (provided I don't have to be out of the country in AK again). I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE sewing for formal occassions!!! I wish I had a formal affair to attend every other month but of course that would probably get expensive. And by that I mean renting my Hubby's tux because with sewing skills you save tons on formal dresses! This new Butterick pattern is already a strong contender. Early last year I purchased this beautiful blue fabric from a Hancock Fabrics in Tallahassee, FL.  I bought this beautiful fabric originally $6/yd for $1/yd and it's the first fabric that I thought would be perfect for this gown. It's a gorgeous midnight blue color. Although it's understated yet pretty, I think it would be oh so elegant for this style of gown. We'll see...

And lastly I bought fabric. Now I mentioned my goal is to limit this this year and for that I'm SERIOUS. I plan to go shopping in my own closet because I have Tons of fabric. This is my main sewing closet....

It is so packed with fabric and you can't even see completely inside the closet....And here's the sewing cabinet outside of my sewing room.....

 And I have several bins of fabric too. Like you guys who are fabric collectors, you can see why it's important to work on keeping this stash in check.


But I decided to treat myself since I landed a Part Time job with a WONDERFUL, local, & Prestigious non-profit organization that encourages mentorship and education for local youths. I found that a reason to celebrate!!! So at Wal-Mart I spotted this purple fabric and passed it up a few weeks ago---you know being disciplined an all. Since getting my position I went back for it and spotted 2 more pieces. I have to admit, Wal-Mart had some nice fabrics--that's not a regular occurence.

The fabric on the left and middle are charmeuse and the one on the right is a red patterned knit with gold specks.

Anyway, that's what's up with me for the next 2 months. What's going on with you. I hope your year's off to a great start! Got any lofty goals? No matter what you choose to do----Happy Sewing to you!