Thursday, May 15, 2014

Rolling Collar/ Tossing out the Patttern Pieces/ Food for Thought

Well between my Cameraman's (aka the Hubby) late work nights and the non-stop rainy weather it will be a little while for I get my Mother's day outfit pics taken & posted. It's my "Sewing Boot Camp" month so the show must go on! I've got lots more pieces to get sewn before the month's end. Here are some "selfies" I took on Sunday when I wore my Mother's Day 2 piece outfit---you know so you don't think I was making the whole thing up--LOL!  I posted my daughter's outfit 2 posts ago. Anyhow, the jacket and skirt were a cute combo. I received A TON of compliments at church.  Again, I'll get the cameraman to take better pics soon....

 (me in my sewing studio)

(trying to get another decent shot in the living room)

I learned ALOT from making the white knit jacket. It went together so easily but I ran into a little snafu with trying keep the shawl collar stabilized---the facing kept wanting to roll inward even after the collar was hand basted and pressed into shape. After consulting with Mr. Jim, you know my Tailoring teacher (remember, his blog is HERE) I discovered that the facing for the jacket wasn't wide enough so it could be attached to part of the armhole or side seam to prevent this rolling. Keep in mind the pattern I used (Burda 8201--which is awesomely drafted) was originally for a woven fabric where there might have been less of a problem. Stretch knits are more prone to such rolling, especially in the case of a shawl collar. Plus the jacket is unlined---so there was no lining to keep things in place either.
(Mr. Jim giving my jacket facing a look over)

 So back to Mr. Jim's point I should have made my facings alot wider. I didn't know this but it's a lesson learned. I think avoiding issues like this are exactly why Mr. Jim tosses out most commercial facing pieces. I've seen him do it numerous times. It's hilarious! Not only does he NEVER read the pattern instructions he makes most of his own pieces. As an experienced tailor he creates his own faces, pockets, collars etc based on his tailoring knowledge/skill. And his garments always come out impeccable. For me this is " food for thought". I need to think about the whether I need to modify pattern facings and such especially when using a non-recommended fabric. I do think I can resolve this shawl collar rolling issue. It may involve a little "rigging" LOL! Anyhow I appreciate the process and lesson learned. Plus the jacket is really cute.  I'll update you more soon......


  1. My "habit" is to take completely incompatible pieces from different patterns and try to meld them into one coherent item of clothing! Sometimes it works; LOL, SOMETIMES IT DOESN't. But, as you point out, plenty of opportunities for lessons learned! MD outfit is very cute. You must get your photographer to take a photo of you and your daughter together.

  2. Very nice outfit Victoria! I can't wait to see more photos of the outfit too, especially your dress. That jacket is beautiful too! I think it should be a staple in every woman's closet for summer pairings! You are so very lucky to have Mr. Jim at your disposal too!

    1. I know right, I wish I had my own Mr. Jim too. The whole outfit is so gorgeous, Victoria, and looks lovely on you.

  3. Victoria I love your work, and your outfit is beautiful.

  4. I want to meet him so bad! I need to make some real money so I can head down to Georgia!

  5. Sandra Betzina is big on making facings deeper than the pattern companies give us, even on woven fabrics. Facings have a tendency to roll regardless of woven or knits. Deeper, wider facings are always better.

  6. That jacket is great! I stopped reading pattern instructions years ago for tailored garments. I rely solely on my tailoring books. You are so lucky to be able to apprentice with Mr. Jim. What a blessing!

  7. Even with the selfie your jacket and dress look great. You are lucky to have a tailoring expert who is willing to share his secrets so close. I wish I had someone to rely upon when i have a sewing question. My sewing mentor was my grandmother, who passed away in '83. Every now and then, I still wish I could pick up the phone and call her for her input... and not just about sewing.


Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for following me on my 10,000 Hour Sewing Challenge:)


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