Rolling Collar/ Tossing out the Patttern Pieces/ Food for Thought

Well between my Cameraman's (aka the Hubby) late work nights and the non-stop rainy weather it will be a little while for I get my Mother's day outfit pics taken & posted. It's my "Sewing Boot Camp" month so the show must go on! I've got lots more pieces to get sewn before the month's end. Here are some "selfies" I took on Sunday when I wore my Mother's Day 2 piece outfit---you know so you don't think I was making the whole thing up--LOL!  I posted my daughter's outfit 2 posts ago. Anyhow, the jacket and skirt were a cute combo. I received A TON of compliments at church.  Again, I'll get the cameraman to take better pics soon....

 (me in my sewing studio)

(trying to get another decent shot in the living room)

I learned ALOT from making the white knit jacket. It went together so easily but I ran into a little snafu with trying keep the shawl collar stabilized---the facing kept wanting to roll inward even after the collar was hand basted and pressed into shape. After consulting with Mr. Jim, you know my Tailoring teacher (remember, his blog is HERE) I discovered that the facing for the jacket wasn't wide enough so it could be attached to part of the armhole or side seam to prevent this rolling. Keep in mind the pattern I used (Burda 8201--which is awesomely drafted) was originally for a woven fabric where there might have been less of a problem. Stretch knits are more prone to such rolling, especially in the case of a shawl collar. Plus the jacket is unlined---so there was no lining to keep things in place either.

(Mr. Jim giving my jacket facing a look over)

 So back to Mr. Jim's point I should have made my facings alot wider. I didn't know this but it's a lesson learned. I think avoiding issues like this are exactly why Mr. Jim tosses out most commercial facing pieces. I've seen him do it numerous times. It's hilarious! Not only does he NEVER read the pattern instructions he makes most of his own pieces. As an experienced tailor he creates his own faces, pockets, collars etc based on his tailoring knowledge/skill. And his garments always come out impeccable. For me this is " food for thought". I need to think about the whether I need to modify pattern facings and such especially when using a non-recommended fabric. I do think I can resolve this shawl collar rolling issue. It may involve a little "rigging" LOL! Anyhow I appreciate the process and lesson learned. Plus the jacket is really cute.  I'll update you more soon......