Sewing Jots and Tittles 3.26.12

Ok, the pressure of my thoughts are mounting so it's time for a brain dump!!! I'm in the middle of sewing me and my daughter's dresses for Easter! They're going to be really cute!!!! BTW, thanks so much for all of the kind comments on my daughter's "Father/Daughter Banquet Dress" (last post). That dress was alot of fun to sew!!!!

Ok, here it is......you asked for it....

Sewing, Fashions and Such.....

Guess who's been draping???? It's all I've been studying as of late when I haven't been working on me and my clients clothes.

Martha Stewart had a sewing pattern in her MS Living Magazine. I didn't know she  promoted clothing patterns.

Loved, loved, loved (a thousand times over) Nina's jacket on a recent episode of Project Runway.

      

Here it is up close.....

Enjoyed eyeing some fashions at my local outlet stores!!!

I want a camel coat with a cute hat and scarf. I loved Jenna Fisher's in the movie Giant Mechanical Man.

I really didn't realize how expensive home decor fabrics were until I recently had a convo about it with a friend. Then I ran across this gorgeous home dec fabric and almost dropped it when I saw the price. WOW!!!

Got some gold swatches from Fabric.com for a potential client. I was surprised how big the swatches were!!!! Very generous!!!

Found this gorgeous stretch sateen at Jo-Ann's. They're getting some great fabrics in for Spring.

Nice stretch denims at Jo-Ann's and in some fun colors!!!!

I didn't understand the bikes in the Spring patterns campaigns. But that's just me.....

Non-Sewing

I wonder how many marriages this saved! LOL!

Barnacles are some cool critters---especially up close.

Awwww....a pic of my girls (Daughter & Goddaughter) holding a drawing of themselves. LOL!!!!

A delicious gluten free pizza. Udi's usually doesn't disappoint!!!

Oh......motherhood provides the best stories!!!! This is a pic of a wooden splinter that I had to remove from my child's......(clears throat)........... little tooshie. She went on a school field trip to a local farm and must have gotten impaled when she did the hay ride. She's a trooper! This thing was almost an inch long!!!!!

Saw this under my microwave cart and nearly panicked.....

Forgot it was my daughter's toy tarantula! LOL I could NEVER live anywhere where actual spiders this size roam around outside!!!

Took a pic with the hubby on our date night and had no idea he posed like this. He was being so silly! This pic looks like an advertisement for Metamucil. Hey regularity does make one happy LOL!!!

One of my current reads! It's an EXCELLENT book!!! Getting my insecurities in check!!!

Can't wait til this movie comes out!!! I'm no Trekkie but I did grow up watching Captain Kirk so I appreciate the franchise. Plus Chris Kline really impressed me in the first one.

NewLook 6205--- 3rd Father/Daughter Banquet Dress

One dress down and 2 more to go for Easter on next weekend!!! Last night was the Father/Daughter Banquet sponsored by our church at the Savannah Station---a  lovely iconic landmark in downtown Savannah. It was a MAGICAL night for all the dad's and daughter's who attended. This was the 3rd banquet my Hubby and Daughter attended and for the first time I got to get in on the actions since I was asked to be a server for the night. They ate great food, played games, and danced the night away all in their finest fancy formal wear. I was honored to sew my daughter's dress---NewLook 6205--- for the event. I absolutely loved this dress and since I was working on a tight time schedule this was easy enough to pull off. Originally I'd planned to make Butterick 5845 for both my daughter and goddaughter but just didn't have the time to get it done. So here's the details on NewLook 6205.....

(Pic taken on smart phone during overcast skies doesn't do color justice! The fabric is BRIGHT Fuschia!!!! You can see it better in pics below. Color aside, my child is quite the little character. So much fun and full of life. Every bit like her Dad:))

NewLook 6205

Time to Sew:

This was actually an easy one. A little less than 5 hours. It only has 4 pieces and went together quickly.

Sewing Ease (scale 1 easy to 10 difficult):

About a 3. Super easy!

Pattern Description:

Girl's dress with fitted bodice and pleated skirt. I made view D.

Pattern Sizing:

I cut a size 5 for my daughter.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

YES!!!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very much so!

(It was pretty chilly so I paired the dress with a black bolero, tights and cute strappy sandals.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love  the shoulder straps and the pleated skirt. I just knew the dress would be stunning in a crisp fabric such as a taffeta. I didn't like how the pleats were positioned in the back of the dress. My daughter's "tooshie" made the protrude and created a bit of a bubble effect. It wasn't bad I just didn't like the fullness.

Fabric Used:

Bright fuchsia taffeta with black embossed velvet design.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

*I didn't use seam binding on the neckline. Instead I serged it, turned it under and sewed the edge.

*I added a lining to the skirt. The taffeta needed the support.

*I added a velvet belt, bow, and used a store bought flower as embellishments.

What would you do differently next time?:

I made all the changes I wanted so I don't think anymore would be needed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I love this dress so I plan to sew it again. I'm not always happy with little girl dress patterns so when I find one I want I hold onto it and reuse it!

Wardrobe Versatility:

Not much! I made this dress for a Father/Daughter Banquet at our church so it's really a one time wear dress. May even get another opportunity to wear it if she doesn't grow out of it first.

Conclusion:

Lovely dress!!!

Here's a few extra pics from the night's event....

(Some serious posing LOL! I honestly don't know what my daughter's trying to do!!! LOL)

(Hanging out at the table with her Godsis and Goddad)

(Cuddling with Dad)

(My fave pic of the night---Hubby, Daughter, our Goddaughter, and her Dad (also our daughter's Goddad). Those are some good looking folks!!!!)

Pants Fitting: What I've Learned About Fitting Pants Thus Far.....

Whoa, can someone tell me where last week went? I sure would like to find it! Sigh. Things have been busy, busy, busy and the next 2 weeks aren't much better. I have to churn out 3 dresses---one for my daughter that's needed by Friday and I although I've done a muslin haven't worked on her dress yet. But more on that later. For now, as promised, I'll sum up what I've learned from fitting pants.

This may be a bit repetitious from what you've read in my previous pants posts from the last 2 months but here's the overall summary of what I've learned from studying pants fitting......

1. Study, study, study. Fit, Fit, Fit. And repeat. I can't tell you how crazy it is that in the middle of all my failed attempts and my re-strategizing that eventually the light bulb came on and I understood how to fit for my figure. You feel like you're getting no where but in actuality you're getting closer to getting it. Every bit of information you gather isn't wasted and if you're persistent you'll begin to make the necessary connections.

2. Start with a GOOD pattern! Make sure it's well drafted. Check other folks reviews. This is ALWAYS a good place to start. This could be the difference between getting stuck doing a bunch of needless alterations (like getting rid of crazy back leg wrinkles), etc and making a nice pair of pants that needs some adjustments and a few tweaks.

3. Pattern alterations should go from big to small.  Trust me a thousand tiny tweaks at first won't make a difference. Save yourself the time. Try to locate the major fit issues with the pattern. Adjust the length and then deal with circumference. Then after I've finished that I analyze the crotch fit. I'm to the point now where I make my major crotch/length changes at the flat pattern stage and then just do minor tweaks in muslin. But that's only because I'm familiar with the alterations needed for my body type.

4. Learn the tricks of the trade. Oftentimes if the back crotch length isn't long enough for me then I can alter the crotch (scoop it out a little bit) and give myself a little more length.

5. Invest in GREAT resources. Pick books/ DVD's etc that are helpful. There are TONS of resources out there. I've blogged about my favorites in several posts. There are even helpful You-Tube videos out there. Keep searching through information until you find something that really sticks with you.

(I have lots of resources. These are my 3 favorite books but I've also relied heavily on videos on the subject as well)

6. The crotch is the trickiest part to fit.  I use my measurements in addition to the aids of a flexible ruler to get my crotch shape and deconstructed pants of the same style to make alterations. Remember when working on tricky areas you've got to work smarter not necessarily harder!!!!

7. Be open to changing the crotch curve shape. There is NO STANDARD shape. Based on our figures and posture the crotch cure shape may need some tweaking. For this I look to deconstructed RTW pants of the same style.

8. Changes in crotch length and crotch depth can potentially affect each other. When making changes keep that in mind.

9. Remember the crotch shape, lengths isn't the same for every style of pants. So know you may have to make slightly different adjustments for every style just like you would if you were using different fabrics.

10. Practice pants fitting with a pair of less complicated pants. Believe it or not, I learned alot from fitting a pair of leggings. For others doing crotch alterations on a pair of  elastic waist pants may be simplest. Trust me there's always time to learn to sew a fly front and add a waistband.

11. Get in tune with your body. Know what kind of pants fit your figure well. I'd NEVER sew a pair of high-waisted pants since I'm short-waisted. If you're not comfortable in fitted paints then maybe a trouser style is better for you. "To thy own body be true" LOL!

12. Once you get great pants that fit you can re-use them and even change them up to create different styles. If you'd like to preserve a great pants pattern just iron on interfacing to the tissue.

13. Keep at it and try to have fun! I know it can be a bit distressing and upsetting when you can't perfect the fit right away. But that's in part to just not knowing what to do. The more you work at it the more you will begin to understand and gain the info you need that will help you get the fit you want.

To read about all of my past pants fitting experiences and adventures feel free to type "pants" in the search box on the right side, midway down my blog!

For those of you still working hard to get a good fitting pant I wish you well. I know you can do it! Just hang in there!!!! If I can do it I know you can as well!!!!

Pants Fitting: Working Smarter NOT Harder---Pants Fitting Series Part 2 of 3

A few people were curious to how I go about doing my pants fittings so I thought I'd oblige them. There's really nothing magical to what I do just a series of steps

Here's how I do my pants fitting.......

1. Make all the necessary pattern alterations. I compare flat pattern measurements with those of the pattern. As I mentioned before I also compare RTW pants measurement with those of the pattern. I outlined my pattern adjustments here. I also look at the pants leg widths and lengths to make sure they're ok. When I'm satisfied with the results I proceed to cut out the pattern. I have to admit that most of my pattern adjustments are done at the flat pattern stage.

(Pattern adjustments)

(Pattern being compared with RTW pants that fit well)

2. If I'm working with a new pants pattern I ALWAYS make a muslin. My muslin is either made out of the usual bleached muslin fabric or something or a similar fabric to what I plan to sew. If there are any side pockets then they're taped to the pants piece and they're cut out as a unit with the pants piece. So basically I'm just cutting out 2 front and back pieces. I don't tend to fiddle with other details (back pockets, etc) during the fitting.  I will cut out back yoke piece of course because it's important for fitting purpose. I don't even bother cutting out the waistband.

3. Here's how I assemble my pants for a fitting (and actually when I sew them if no fancy top stitching is involved)
-Sew front pant to back pattern at sides. Do the same with the other leg.
-Insert one set of pants legs into the other with right sides facing.
-I sew up the crotch below the fly to leave an opening so I can try on the pants (if there's no fly then I leave front upper pants open about 5" or so). Stop sewing about 1" away from the inseam on both pants front and pick back up sewing 1" after crossing over back pants inseam. I basically leave a gaping hole in where the inseams connect. By leaving this open it just makes it easier for me to do any inseam adjustments. Sometimes I may have to adjust the front or back inseam and with them left unsewn it's easier to do that.

4. I try on the pants with seams out. I pin the front crotch up at the appropriate seam allowance. With the pants inside-out and the seams visible it's easier for me to do the necessary tweaks.  This is especially helpful when making crotch adjustments.

(Fitting with seam allowance out for easier tweaking)

5. I place 1" elastic at the waist. At this point I make observations of the pants and begin to do my normal suite of adjustments. I move the pants up or down until I get the crotch depth right. I look to see if any length needs to be added in the back (which is where I sometimes come up short). If the length issue are resolved then I look at the circumference and take in or let out as necessary. I suggest you consult your preferred pants fitting book(s) for helpful advice on the adjustments you need to make for your body type.

6. Once I've noted the changes I go back and correct them on my tissue. I never usually make any drastic changes which is why I just transfer the changes to the tissue. If I made drastic changes I would probably just use my muslin as a pattern instead.

Ok, so there you have it! I told you my methods weren't complex. See, you didn't believe me (wink)! As I mentioned before I do most o of my pants corrections at the flat pattern stage. In my opinion it can be really difficult to tweak pants. For me to start with a pattern that's similar to my measurements and a RTW pants that I have and know fits helps me avoid most of the crazy, unnecessary fitting woes. It's been my experience that when I've got the crotch curve/length/depth in the right ball park all I have to do are minor tweaks--such as deepening back darts, fixing gaposis in the waistband or yoke, etc. Which is why I go to great lengths to make sure my pattern adjustments are done ahead of time & I've compared the pattern with RTW as a backup strategy.

Ok, I don't know if this was that helpful but I hope it helped put some of you people who have been working tirelessly. Trust me I understand the struggle. Everyone does things different so I'm sure you will find what works for you. If anyone has any other pointers they want to share feel free. Never underestimate how your experiences can be helpful to others!!!!  In the next post I'll summarize what I've learned about fitting pants (strategies/tips).....

Sewing Jots and Tittles 3.8.13

We interrupt the regularly scheduled programming for a much needed brain dump. Buckle up, it's gonna be a wild ride (wink).......

Sewing, Fashions and Such.....

(Thinking about doing a book trade. I'll likely sale back the book on the left to Amazon.com and use the credit to go toward the newer version of the book on the right.  I LOVE the F&PA book!)

(Yeah this is what happens when my daughter spends too much time in my sewing room. Who does this to a pin cushion??? LOL)

(I finally picked out my daughter and I's Easter outfits. I'm so excited. Now I've got to pick out the perfect fabric!)

 (Yes, I will be making denim capris in as many colors as I can this Spring/Summer)

(Finding some really cute fabrics for the upcoming Daddy/Daughter Banquet dresses)

(Almost deconstructed these pants and realized they were NYDJ. Didn't realize I bought fancy pants from a thrift store.)

(If I wore boots I probably wear these. Those are some F-A-N-C-Y boots! Hey if you're gonna do it---go ALL out! LOL!!!)

(Love this quote!!!)

(A friend of mine sent me this video for my bday. I LOVED this movie when I was just a kid!!! This particular scene has a special meaning now that I'm a sewer. Never underestimate the power of sewing!!!)

Non-Sewing

(Sushi themed stapler and erasers from World Market. Just the cutest things)

(She resented the fact that I found her sunglasses to be hilarious. They're like the big, Johnny-Depp-as-Willy Wonka kind LOL!!!!)

 (Got another great rice deal at Publix--and right as I just ran out of the other 20lb bag. Man this thing will also last forever LOL!)

(Some of the best gluten free cake I picked up at Whole Foods. It was gone in less than 2 days)

(I caught her sneaking food to her cousin. It was like she was feeding a small animal or something LOL. BTW, this is also the cousin she tried to adopt as her little brother. I've gotta get this child a companion!!!! LOL!)

 (What my daughter looked like after spending a weekend hanging with her Grandparents/Aunts/Cousins, etc. She couldn't stay awake in the store LOL!)

 (Love to come to work and see flowers in bloom. Spring is near!!!!)

(Oops, they forgot to cut down one!)

(This is what my child looked like when I picked her up one day from school. SMH! LOL!)

(Hilarious ad)

(I never knew that Africa's largest mammal migration were fruit bats in Zambia. What an interesting read.....)

(Really good movie!!!)

Ok, back to the regularly scheduled program!!!! Pants Fitting Series post #2 next.....

"My Pants Fitting Journey"---Pants Fitting Series Part I of 3

So I thought it would be kinda cool to do a few posts detailing my Pants fitting journey. I know fitting and sewing pants can be so cumbersome and I've seen so many people give up on it out of frustration. Trust me I know that frustration all too well---I've dealt with it for YEARS!!! It's enough to make you want to pull your hair out and cry. I'm hoping these posts will be of some help and at the very least encourage you to jump back in if you've given up the hope of ever making pants that fit---especially if you really desire to do so. Well, here's my story.......

My pants sewing journey REALLY began about 2 years ago. You may recall 2 of my trials with Jalie 2909 documented HERE and HERE. I'd taken a couple weeks off from sewing to study fitting pants and I believe that it paid off and was a good effort. I even used some RTW pants to help make me with adjustments to the pattern. But despite that I still had a few fit problems.....

1. I couldn't get rid of back leg wrinkles
2. Couldn't get comfortable fit in rear.
3. My front crotch was too tight. I'd shortened the crotch depth from the original pattern but didn't quite know how to add room in this area.

I made a little more progress in the the Fall of last year with this attempt, again using Jalie 2909. I came away with a better pants fitting strategy but still didn't nail the fit......

Although I didn't quite figure things out entirely I kept reading/watching everything I could on pants fitting. I was determined to get it eventually.....

Fast forward to the Fearless February Sew Along (FFSA), just a few months later, where I decided to have another go at it!!! Suprisingly this time I figured it out and improved my fitting abilities tremendously.

My FFSA Pants Fitting Strategy:
1. Change the pants pattern. I tried again to resume work with Jalie 2909 and got no where. I spent more than half of February fiddling with it before I switched to Burda 7192. I wanted to pick something fit for a slimmer woman's figure and was drafted well.
2. Looked to RTW again for answers. I had to see the difference between the pattern and what I was actually wearing that fit. I knew by comparing I'd find the answers.

I made up my Burda 7192 muslin and used the information I'd studied up on to make changes to the muslin. I still had some back leg wrinkles and the pattern gathered under my rear. I did a few adjustments to the pattern and everything except the crotch looked great. I also found some helpful tips in this other fit book but I still had some crotch issues and back leg wrinkles and I knew I wouldn't resolve it by just minor tweaking. And I DEFINITELY WASN'T going to make more than 2-3 muslins (although the possibility of 10 were mentioned by the book's author). So I had to get radical!!!!! I decided to deconstruct a pair of pants that were similar in style and fit well. I never wore them---they were from NY & CO. and were a mulberry color. Whatever compelled me to buy them I don't know but they were perfect for deconstruction and comparison with Burda 7192.

Well I took it apart and aligned it with Burda 7192 and instantly found my issues.....

(deconstructed NY & CO. pants on top of Burda 7192 pattern. As you can see the pattern were pretty much similar minus the crotch shape.

(red line show changes to front crotch. Lowered the front inseam)

 (back crotch curve lowered which helped to add to the crotch length and fully cover my rear)

(muslin after making changes! Butt & back crotch fit looked GREAT!!!)

And as a result I sucessfully made Burda 7192, my gray pants.

But keep in mind that the changes I made to get these pants to fit were specific to this style of pants. You can't just copy your crotch curve from one pair of pants and apply it to all styles. Case in point---try taking apart 3 different styles of pants (fitted, semi fitted, loose) and look at the front/back crotch shapes and lengths. I've done it--it's really cool!!! You'll notice they're all a bit different since they're drafted to fit your body differently. The fitted pair of pants is likely to have a shorter crotch curve whereas the loose pair may have a longer one since the pants will hang from the body more. I learned this when I immediately made my pair of denim capris following this pattern. I had to make slightly different changes to the crotch.

(Excuse my horrible bathroom photos. LOL! Muslin for Burda 7863---the denim capris pattern. This muslin was made out of a crosswise stretching knit. As you can see the crotch depth was too long. I had to go in and shorten it a bit.)

 (The back crotch was too tight. I had to add a little to the back inseam and lengthen the back crotch a smidge).

(The final result after all of the fittings---Burda 7863. The fit wasn't absolute perfect. Still had some minor crotch issues to work out  but I loved the end results!!!)

From those experience I gained some additional knowledge about how to fit my figure type. Here it is...

Pants Fitting Figure Analysis:
1. My Derriere is more full than high. It's dropped in the recent years due to age and inactivity (unfortunately not hitting the gym like I used to).
2. I have fuller inner thighs. In some cases I need to add to my inseam a bit and taper to nothing.

(example alteration from book "Fitting and Pattern Alteration" for my fuller rear. This usually takes of the fuller thigh issue.)

3. My crotch depth & length is shorter than it is in the back (my waist is at an angle---higher in the back then the front).
4. Due to my rear I have gaposis in the back and rely on darts for contouring. If it's pants with a waistband I likely take out the extra there or if it's jeans with a yoke I can take out darts in the yoke (one on each side) and then take out the excess in the center back seam of the waistband.

Remember it's out of experience with fitting/sewing pants that you give yourself more knowledge to build off of for the next try.....

Lastly, I wouldn't have been able to get this far without great resources. I collect and read EVERYTHING I can get my hands on usually. Here my fave's.....

My Favorite Resources: 
I pretty much listed them in my 2010 posts (links above in 2nd paragraph) but here's the 3 most beneficial books to me. I LOVE these books!!!! The Singer is awesome due to the color photos and explanation of crotch shapes, how posture affect pants pattern, etc. The FP&A book is fantastic due to it's wide range of pattern alterations presented. BTW, this is the OLD version---I'm aiming to get the 2009 version. Of course there's PFRP---who doesn't love Palmer/Pletsch books. Such a good combo of photos and drawings. I also listened to Peggy Sager's of Silhouette Patterns, webcasts on fitting pants. I blogged about them HERE.

Anyhow that's all for now. Within the next week I hope to do 2 more pants journey posts focusing on "how I fit pants"---how I make/fit my muslins and how I sew the final pants. I kinda have my own process. And another post as a synopsis of "all I've learned so far about pants fitting"--personal insights, strategies, etc. Again not alot of people post this type of info so I thought I'd share. Hope it's helpful:).......Ok, my eyes are getting heavy so I'm off to bed.......

Fearless February SA Wrap Up/ March Sewing Goals

Hey Guys again thanks for all you support and participation in the Fearless February Sew Along!!!! The month was AWESOME!!!! Remember you can check out the projects from other participants HERE. I thought a video would be a good way to do a wrap-up for the month.....

My Fearless February Finished Projects:
- Burda 7192 Gray Pants
- Burda 7863 Denim Capris
- Vogue 1020 Little Black Dress

Also I did get to wear my Vogue 1020 Little Black Dress dress this weekend but being that I did so at funeral so I didn't get a picture. Again I've made the dress 3 times--- here's a pic of my first version I made 2 years ago.....

BTW, I failed to adequately review it in the last post ( I really shouldn't write posts when I'm tired). Vogue 1020 is a SUPER easy dress to sew!!!! I sewed the entire thing on my serger (I did baste with my conventional machine first to check the fit) and finished the hemlines and neckline with my coverstitch machine. I also reinforced the shoulder with clear elastic and the ruched side. A super easy dress that can be completed in a couple of hours (a little longer for me since I'm a slow sewer- LOL)!!!

Ok, my next post will detail my pants fitting journey. I'm so excited to share.........