Thursday, February 2, 2012

Addicted to "Fit"!





I haven't bought a sewing book in quite a while but it's always refreshing to run across what seems to be a good one. I like to stay pretty up to date with the sewing references. Today while persuing Amazon.com I ran across a new book on Pattern/Muslin Fitting entitled "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting" by Sarah Veblen. I did a "sneak peak" into the book and there seems to be extensinve information on how to adjust patterns and tweaking muslins.  And better yet, it's chalked full of photos. For a visual learner such as myself, this is extremely helpful. I'm getting so giddy just thinking about. I strongly believe achieveing great fit is a science!

Fitting is a subject I love to study from all angles. Not just for myself but I sew for others and I love to learn new techniques and principles. I credit great books and some trial and error in helping me learn. I own so many diffferent books on Fitting. My top 5 favorites are:
(I LOVE this book! It's so "old school" but on point.)

(Much newer than the previous book but definitely a classic! When I first began sewing I never thought you could fit with the tissue. This step has made muslin-making for certain clothes an easier task.I love Palmer& Pletsch so much that I own the Jacket & Pants fitting books too!)

(Excellent pants fitting book! It's a Singer, what did you expect (smile)!)

(There's a newer version of this book but I like this one just fine. It has really indepth descriptions of why alterations are needed and at least 3 alteration options.)

(Another "Classic" that's invaluable")

I have to admit that it's taken me years to understand fit to the level that I do now. I don't know all there is by ANY means but I've come to know my body well enough to make fitted garments for myself. And I know enough to fit my clients.That's actually why I like to work with people because no two bodies are alike.  Each project definitely brings it's own challenges and allows me to learn even more. Trust me my fitting books can get good use at times:)

As I mentioned before in an earlier post this year, I still have to overcome the challenge of creating pants that fit me. With a high derriere and short waist, I've got some fitting issues to overcome. I'm actually thinking of a different course of action---drafting a pants pattern, creating a muslin from it, and tweaking the fit. More about that in the future. But back to the topic at hand. Again, I love books on fitting patterns & muslins. I can't wait for my new purchase to arrive.

So let me ask you.....How comfortable do you feel with fitting patterns/muslins? What is your favorite book?

21 comments:

  1. To be honest, I really do not have any idea about fitting. I've been quite fortunate that most of the big 4 do a B cup, and I am a size 12, so that helps. The skirts however are a different matter. I am size 16 below the waist, and my hips are kinda all over the place, I tend to stick to gathered skirts, just to avoid having to adjust more close fitting skirts. I intend to learn how to properly fit myself this year. I have "Fit for Real People", and the one for trousers as well. So hopefully that will help.

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  2. As soon as I read your post, I went and hit the buy now button for "Complete guide to perfect fitting." It had been sitting in my Amazon cart for a little while, just needed the little push!

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  3. I've got a long way to go with fitting. I am slowly improving. Reading different guides helps, but for me it's mostly just practice, practice, practice! Which takes time and money, so it's slow going.

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  4. How about wrapping your lower half in gladwrap then use it as a pants block? You'd need to cut it open at the side seams and inseam, then flatten it out as much as possible. Then you'd need to grade it up one size. You'll have a perfect fitting pant's block with no ease.

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  5. I'm not as obsessed with fitting as I should be. I make muslins only when I absolutely have to. And I HATE tissue fitting. I'm at the kindergarten stage of fitting: I compare my measurements to the pattern measurements, adjust the pattern and hope for the best! I use my fitting books to get an understanding of my problem areas and make my adjustments using the Pivot and slide technique in the "Fitting and Pattern Alterations" book. I will take a look at the Veblen book and the Vogue book.

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  6. Victoria, you are so bad. You made me order that book. Now you owe me $20!! Ha! Seriously, this looks like a great book. Thanks for the heads up.

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  7. Candice, happy to give you the push. I love when people do that for me too (smile)!

    Wyld Woman--wrapping myself is an interesting notion. Years ago I made my own duct tape dressform so I'm familiar with the concept. Got any websites or books on the subject. I'll do a web search for instructions. Neat idea!

    gwensews--I know you're a book collector like me. I know you'll return the favor and suggest something for me to buy in the future (smile)!

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  8. I can't wait to read what you think of the new book once it comes in. I don't actually own any fitting books yet (I know, bad!). Aside from moving darts for my swayback issue and grading, I generally don't change anything. I should though - going by my hip measurement always comes out wrong (because my weight is in my rear, not on my hips). Maybe your new review will push me to finally buy one!

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  9. "Fit for Real People" is my favorite. It was a revelation to see step-by-step mechanics of paper fitting. I consult it all the time, for me and for my daughter. We both need FBA, long waist and long rise adjustments. I have a too-full bicep. She has the small waist that I lost after pregnancy with her (some sort of mystical transference, I feel certain.) Drafting from scratch will give you the most personal pattern of all: I highly recommend doing it.

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  10. You have a nice assortment of helpful books. Fitting is a challenge for me too. Now I'm thinking about buying at least to of the books shown in your post.

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  11. I just left a post on another gals blog that had picked up some of the singer books, saying... I love those books because for those of us that "like to picture read directions" LOL they are super are they not!

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  12. Hi Victoria. Thank you for great overview of the books. I am returning sewer and was really craving this info! I have never done muslin dress yet. Which pattern would you recommend? Or should I just make it myself from my measurements...
    ~ Iryna

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  13. As I was working on my Clovers, I read so many fitting references. The book that helped the MOST was an old favorite from my bookcase "Sewing Pants That Fit" Singer Library. I love that series.

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  14. I look forward to seeing this book, too. I have the Fitting & Pattern Alterations, which is indispensible to get ideas of what might need to be done, but the how-to is a little harder. I like photos!

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  15. I have the "Fitting and Pattern Alteration" and I just don't love it... I don't think the illustrations explain the alterations well. And it should be such a good book!

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  16. Thanks for your insight A Sewn Wardrobe! I've had the same experience with some sewing books too. It sucks to be disappointed. I can't wait to see and assess this one.

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  17. Thank you so much for this post, I am looking in to buying some fitting books and this review will really help me choose! Love your blog.

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  18. You have quite a library for fitting, I love Singer's book as well. Didn't know Vogue had one.

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  19. I bought Sarah Veblen's book several weeks ago and really like it. I have all the others books except the Vogue book. They all have something the others don't.

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  20. I picked up the first 3 books that you pictured above from a library. Thanks for the dvd/book coupon tip at a fabric store. I scored a Kwik Sew book with a 40 or 50% off coupon. Now if I could only find some dvds.

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  21. Thanks for posting this - I just finished my second pair of jeans and I really need a couple more books to help! Off to Amazon...

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Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for following me on my 10,000 Hour Sewing Challenge:)

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