Sunday, February 3, 2013

Encountering "Pants" Challenges and Changing Course....

I should've guessed that as soon as I began my "Fearless February" challenge I would have problems coming straight out of the gate. But that's to be expected since I and all of you who have joined this sew along (or others who are just tackling tougher projects all your own) have decided to push ourselves outside our comfort zone. Ok so I'm not detoured by this. I actually expected it. Anytime you do something new or tougher there will be challenges, right? Mind you, I'm super calm right now since I had an EPIC BOUT WITH FRUSTRATION on last night. Fortunately I didn't trash my sewing room or throw anything. Came close though. Instead I took a prescription of chocolate chip cookies and got a good nights rest  LOL!!!! It worked like a charm because today I'm back to my same ole' optimistic self (wink).

So it's a new day and I've decided to take a whole new approach on the matter. So you wanna know what got me all wound up? Well yesterday I revisited Jalie 2909. I've made it twice before. You can see my 1st pair here and 2nd pair here. Well I wanted to make it again but with improvements---mainly to get rid of the back leg wrinkles. For some reason I'm so ANNOYED with back leg wrinkles with pants I sew. Nevermind the fact that I have RTW pants that have them and that doesn't bother me. In contrast the pants I make, IMO, have to fit perfectly. My small hangup, huh? Well I did another muslin and fiddled and fiddled with it but just couldn't get it the way I wanted---I couldn't get rid of the wrinkles. To do so I think I would've had to go through the pains of narrowing the back pattern piece and probably re-angle the crotch. That would've been too much trial and error and an unwise use of my time considering all I'm trying to sew this month.

So after much deliberation I've decided to try another pattern. All pants aren't created equal anyway, huh? Most of us know that each pattern company uses it's own set of drafting blocks to create their pants patterns--which are based on their own standard measurements. Some fit better than others. Some fit with only a little tweaking while some would just require re-drafting to your measurements to fit. Since I've been experiencing continual problems with the back legs wrinkles with this pattern I've decided to just switch patterns. Hey it was Einstein who said....."Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results". I'm not insane---obsessed with sewing, but not insane! LOL! Well although I've done lots of tweaking and can't get rid of the wrinkles I've realized it's time to let this one go.......

 I'm now working with  Burda 7192.  If this doesn't work then I have another Burda pant to try.
 Heck, if I don't have any good luck with that one then I'll just create a pattern from a RTW pair. Hopefully I won't have to go that far. I tend to like Burda patterns which have more of a European draft. I'm a little curvy but I am rather tall and thin so I don't need alot of the extra width that the big 4 pattern companies pants have. So I'll give this a try and see where it puts me. I will be fine, I know it. I've been studying fitting pants and have learned too much not to get this all figured out. At some point you have to stop taking things SO personal and work with what you know and use your resources wisely to resolve the problem. Again, if this doesn't work out then I could always use a good fitting RTW pants as a pattern. Either way, before the month's end I'm gonna have me some good fitting pants and a great TNT pattern to use. I can promise you that!!!! I'm preparing to cut my muslin of Burda 7192 and will keep you posted on the results.....

Anyhow, how's things going with you? Have you hit any challenges lately and had to change course? Did you resolve the problem? Do share!!!!

12 comments:

  1. I am with you on back leg wrinkles. I usually have that with my pants, the major cause for me is full inner thigh and high derrier, the only method that's worked for me is Minnott's method which I read about on Debbi's blog here

    http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.ca/2008/01/full-inner-thigh-alterations.html
    Also Burda patterns are so great to work it. Good luck, and looking forward to great pants

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    1. A thousand thanks Aminat!!!! I too have a high rear and learned to adjust for that fine by adding to the top back of my pattern. But those lower wrinkles had me stomped and I began to suspect that the shape of my legs may have something to do with it. My stance is more like a penguin (feet point out, not straight). And I noticed that while wearing a muslin, if I changed how I was standing the wrinkles would disappear. I like this alteration and will give it a shot. I think I may need to shift my pants over too. Thanks again. And I' definitely want that book. I have all of the other one's she listed. Thanks again!!!

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  2. I've also had more success with Burda patterns for pants. That journey took me a good 6 months to perfect and I'll get back to making fitted pants when the weather cools down here.
    Would you believe I have to add more to my right inner seam because of that side has a fuller thigh? That's my pants reality that I discovered while making jeans with woven fabric.
    All the best Victoria. I'll keep some chocolate cookies in the cupboard this month for my fearless project too. Great advice.
    Cheers.

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    1. I understand that Velosewer! It's definitely a journey to get great pants. Glad you found success with Burda. I hope to do the same. Yeah, It's amazing how many tweaks you have to make with pants. So much to consider---crotch depth/length and leg position and your posture. Wow, what a challenge! Despite the frustration I actually like the challenge. I hope to find your success......

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  3. Pants will really have you wanting to pull out your hair. You make muslin after muslin perfecting a pattern. Well, you better make it your TNT. Because if not, you'll be going through this every time. I had to make my personal peace with pants. I had to tweak my true problem areas (i.e. gaping at the CB, pockets gaping, smiling crotches, and length issues. I find that unless pants are tight, there will be some kind of wrinkling going on. And that's ok... for me. People that are not sewers will never notice.

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    1. SO TRUE Erica!!!! Thanks for chiming in. For someone with your experience and success with pants it's great to know it's not just me. You're right about that---as soon as I get it right, I'll have a TNT for life LOL! Ultimately I hope to draft my own set of blockers one day. That way I could create my own pattern or even use them as a quick check for patterns. One day......

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  4. I haven't started on my pants yet because I'm still working on a project from last month. It's a fitted button down shirt (S2339) that's nearly driven me crazy. I think I've finally figured out what my fit issues are and will be making what will hopefully be my final muslin. I hope to use this last muslin to check final fit and practice construction details. I made my life even more difficult by ordering a plaid fabric to sew this up with, but were being fearless right? Somebody please tell me fitting pants will be easier than this shirt.

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    1. Good deal Turtleandi, sounds like you're coming out ok. I have to say, if you're gonna have to struggle it's nice to emerge from it eventually with a nice product! Good for you. LOL about the plaid!!!! You're absolutely right---we're fearless. Way to go for pushing yourself. I wish I could tell you pants will be easier--it may for you. Just get ready to enjoy the adventure. What's life without them, huh? (wink)

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  5. Pants! They are may challenge for this Fearless February too. I like the top in that Burda pattern that you are using too! My challenge this weekend was dealing with a faulty furnace though - and it was very cold here in Toronto! I should be back to sewing tonight after my hands defrost.

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    1. I know that top is cute and I like the jacket. Feeling a lil' tempted. Oh, you poor thing. I bet it was cold. Bad furnace! Make sure you stay warm!

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  6. I am just like you about pants. I have RTW pants that have flaws but they don't bother me...especially if they came from JCrew. There is just something about JCrew pants that make me feel stylish, even if they don't fit perfectly. However, I can barely stand it if a pair of pants I make has any flaws. I had not seen that Burda pattern so I may try it. I recently make a pair of "Amazing Fit" pants that fit me well except they are too high-waisted. I am going to tweak that on the next fit.

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  7. I know Rachel!!! As sewist we have such HIGH FIT standards, huh? Can't wait to see your pants:)

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Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for following me on my 10,000 Hour Sewing Challenge:)

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