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Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Wool- vs- Gabardine

I have 3 pieces of clothing (1 dress, 1 tunic, 1 pair of pants I mentioned in my last 2 posts) in my queue that are in different stages of near completion. On top of that I'm adding my jacket for the month. If you recall I decided somewhere around mid month that I would join the "Jacket a Month" Sew Along. OK, I know this all seems like a lot but the first 3 items are just a step or two a way from completion. So technically I'm beginning a new project this week.

I've been eyeing this coat pattern (McCall 5987) for quite some time. Isn't it a beauty .....
 I haven't figured out why I'm so smitten with it but I think it's the versatility and drape of the coat. I never really paid attention to this coat but now I'm in love.

The challenge I face now is deciding which fabric to use. I think I'll need your help for this.
I have a beautiful wool fabric (90% wool, 10% acrylic) with two tones of color in it.

 Here it is draped on my dress form


But I also have this wonderful gabardine which is a little lighter than the wool.....

I just can't decide. I've read reviews on this coat and I understand it runs a little big. I want to pick the fabric that doesn't make this too heavy. Also, I want to take into consideration the fact that this coat is unlined. If I use the wool, would I be comfortable with that? Or will I have to line the sleeves to make this coat easier to get into? Decisions, decisions! I plan to make a muslin of this on tonight to adjust the fit and get a better impression on which fabric I should use.

By the way I picked up the wool fabric at an incredible price at Fabric.com. I paid $6.99yd on sale (total $20.97 for 3 yards) which was far better than the $25/yd price I saw at Jo-Anns. Heck, even with a 50% off coupon this coat would have cost a little more than I wanted to spend.  I also was able to take advantage of a few more goodies. As I mentioned before my local Hancock & Jo-Ann's is often limited on the fabrics I want so I don't buy fabric often but rather wait for a big sale to rack up.

So I was able to pick up a host of knits---which as you know IS MY FAVORITE FABRIC TO SEW!!! Lol! Here are 6 different ITY prints. I only purchased these in 2yd increments (for 1 I purchased 3 yds). These are great for cute little asymmetric tops, dresses, etc.

I also snatched up some velour that was discounted super cheap to do a couple of jumpsuits with.
The one on the left is espresso and the one the right is navy. Of course the camera flash made them appear much lighter than what they are. Why did I think the color espresso would be a dark brown. WRONG! I already had black velour so this one has to be returned.

So I'm trying to wrap up my sewing projects. I hope to be able to review 4 pieces before the month's end. Please give me your honest opinion on the fabric for the coat. Which do you think would be best---gabardine or wool. Both are recommended fabrics. Between your suggestions and my muslin I should be able to decide.

What say Ye?????
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28 comments:

  1. Erica BunkerJanuary 25, 2011 at 10:47 AM

    I like the wool. I like that it has texture.

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  2. Jane MJanuary 25, 2011 at 10:58 AM

    I too like that wool acrylic textured fabric. Without any buttons or pockets I like the idea of the fabric doing the talking.

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  3. KarinJanuary 25, 2011 at 11:08 AM

    I also like the wool. The texture adds interest. On the other hand, if you want to keep the coat light, and unlined it could be a little itchy.

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  4. Monica DJanuary 25, 2011 at 12:05 PM

    The wool draws me to it :)

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  5. JulieJanuary 25, 2011 at 12:10 PM

    Wool, definitely. It drapes better and the texture is nice.

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  6. Amanda S.January 25, 2011 at 12:24 PM

    I think I'm the only one who missed all those great ITY prints at Fabric.com, and now they are all picked over. Jealous! I too always pass by JoAnn's selection of wools. Why are they so expensive? I'd expect some cashmere content for what they are charging! Online fabric shopping is the greatest!

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  7. MyraJanuary 25, 2011 at 2:29 PM

    Victoria, you always get the greatest knits!!! I need to take shopping lessons from you! As usual, I'm going to be alone with my opinion...I think the Gabardine would be better. I wouldn't want the fabric to "out shine" the beautiful lines of this coat. So I would use the Garbardine if it were me. Both fabrics are beautiful. Can't wait to see this one all made up!!

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  8. JoanneMJanuary 25, 2011 at 2:59 PM

    I love the wool and that coat is TDF.

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  9. CarolJanuary 25, 2011 at 4:23 PM

    I vote for the gabardine for the same reasons as Myra. I adore this pattern and hope to make it myself next winter. I want a tan one like the picture.

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  10. VictoriaJanuary 25, 2011 at 4:28 PM

    Oh fooey Amanda! We need to keep each other in the loops on the knits. You always seem to buy the cutest knits yourself. Next time I hear something I'll pass the info on!

    Funny Myra, I think the same thing about you! I think we have similar tastes:)

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  11. K.LineJanuary 25, 2011 at 4:38 PM

    I'm with the gabardine - esp. if you're worried about lining and size. Both would be awesome though.

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  12. BunnyJanuary 25, 2011 at 5:16 PM

    Gabardine here! I really like the way it drapes on your form. I like the smooth look of the fabric to show off the pattern.

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  13. AnonymousJanuary 25, 2011 at 5:18 PM

    My vote is for the wool b/c of the texture. Have fun!

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  14. Uma Mageswari PreveJanuary 25, 2011 at 6:08 PM

    Gabardine please. Much easier to handle than wool!

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  15. BelindaJanuary 25, 2011 at 6:38 PM

    Victoria I love your blog, it is such a great source of inspiration. I vote for the gabardine.

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  16. DeiJanuary 25, 2011 at 7:11 PM

    Wool. Like the texture which emphasizes the drape. Man are you industrious.

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  17. Debra MartinJanuary 25, 2011 at 8:47 PM

    Victoria,
    While the wool is my favorite of the two fabrics, I agree with Myra about the gabardine being the better choice to show off the style lines.

    I have a jacket which has lining only in the sleeves. Perhaps if you choose the wool, you can line just the sleeves.

    Can't wait to see it all finished!
    :)Deb M.

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  18. BeckyMcJanuary 25, 2011 at 8:59 PM

    Wool. The gabardine looks like it won't drape softly enough for the design of the coat. In the photos the wool drapes in softer folds.

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  19. AllisonCJanuary 25, 2011 at 9:27 PM

    Not reading any of the other comments so I don't get swayed! I vote for the wool, it seems to drape better on your dressform and so will be more suitable for that pattern I think. On your fabric purchases, I would have expected espresso to be brown too if it is any consolation!

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  20. ZuzanaJanuary 26, 2011 at 12:39 AM

    I like the wool - it's texture would make the coat more versatile in my eyes. It could be very sophisticatedly elegant with, let's say a LBD, but also leisury elegant and great with jeans, high boots and a big slouchy bag :-).

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  21. DigsJanuary 26, 2011 at 1:35 AM

    Wool, no question. The texture is just so much better for a coat, and the dual tonality gives it more go-with versatility.

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  22. SewingadictaJanuary 26, 2011 at 3:12 AM

    The first fabric!!! I am in love with the first material, it's perfect for the layer if it has no backing, it sees is warm and beautiful.
    I am happy that you are again at work to get hours of sewing this new year, I accompany you in it .....

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  23. NuJoiJanuary 26, 2011 at 5:31 AM

    I like the wool best. I have this pattern too. I was sold at the scarf collar.

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  24. ValerieJanuary 26, 2011 at 5:38 AM

    Victoria, what is the fiber content of your gabardine (wool is a fiber, gab is a weave)? That will determine how well and easily it will sew. A light silk or poly lining shouldn't affect drape. Maybe drape the fabric around you and choose which one feels best. Whichever you choose--please show pix!

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  25. Marie-ChristineJanuary 26, 2011 at 5:57 AM

    You mean polyester gabardine, don't you? Wool's a fiber, gabardine's a weave. Mind you, wool gaberdine is now hard to find, but it's great stuff, absolutely the best for a trench coat, why Hillary climbed Everest in that stuff at the turn of the last century..
    Anyway, with this pattern, don't just timidly flop the fabric over the dressform. Whatever drapes best wins!

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  26. VictoriaJanuary 26, 2011 at 6:01 AM

    Sorry Ladies, yeah I forgot to mention the gabardine is polyester.

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  27. SheilaJanuary 26, 2011 at 8:32 AM

    I like the way the wool drapes and great haul of knit fabric.

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  28. Sharon SewsJanuary 30, 2011 at 7:39 PM

    Use the wool - I think you'll be very pleased with how it turns out. I sewed this one about a year ago and used a wool. But it does run large - just as you discovered when you read the reviews. I've dropped just a few pounds since last year and my coat no longer looks chic - it looks dowdy. But the good news is that its so quick to sew I could make another with just a short investment of time.

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Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment and for following me on my 10,000 Hour Sewing Challenge:)